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Faq's

  • Lingerie Terms A to Z

     

    A

     

    Adjustable Back

    The back of a garment, usually a bra, corset or bustier which has multiple settings to allow for individual sizing preferences. Typically, adjustments are made with hook-and-eye closures or lacing.

    Adjustable Garters

    The elastic straps on a garter belt that attach to stockings are adjustable and can be made shorter or longer to provide the best fit.

    Adjustable Shoulder Straps

    Shoulder straps on bras, shape wear, chemises, slips and other types of lingerie and undergarments that allow for shortening or lengthening the straps to provide the best fit.

    Animal Print

    A pattern printed onto or woven into fabric to resemble an animal, usually a leopard, tiger, zebra or snake.

    Appliqué

    A decoration or ornament made by cutting pieces of one material and applying them to the surface of another.  For lingerie, appliqués are often made of lace or mesh and may feature beading, sequins, rhinestones, etc.

    Arm Socks, Arm Warmers

    Gloves, similar to the leg warmers worn by dancers.  Some styles are fingerless but some do have fingers that are cut off to expose the fingers, usually from the second knuckle down to the tip of the finger. Arm socks can be made in anything from sheer mesh and fishnet to heavy knits like socks.  Currently popular with punk dressers.

    Athletic Underwear

    A wide range of underwear including bras, shorts, tights, etc that is generally worn during exercise or athletic activities. Athletic underwear may include wicking power, which draws moisture away from the body, compression for energy conservation and muscle support, mesh for ventilation, specific styles such as a racer back or tank top and stretch fabrics for snug support during athletic activity and giving a body enhancing appearance.

    Attached Garter Belt

    Stockings or hosiery that has a garter belt permanently attached.

    Attached Sleeves

    Can be short sleeves or long sleeves that are attached at only one point to the side of the garment. Attached sleeves are usually seen on certain styles of women’s tops, dresses, costumes and body stockings.

    Austrian Crystal

    Rhinestones, which may or may not be Swarovski, that are made of cut glass or crystal as opposed to plastic or acrylic.  Austrian crystals or rhinestones made of cut glass or crystal are considered superior and have a much more brilliant appearance.  Only cut crystal rhinestones made by Swarovski can use the phrase "Swarovski"

    Average Figure Bra

    Bra that offers light to moderate support, with narrow straps, back and sides. Average figure bras usually made from slightly firmer material.

     

     

    B

     

    Baby Doll, Babydoll, Babydoll Lingerie

    Woman's lingerie that is usually a short nightgown or lounge gown with formed cups and a loose fitting skirt.  Baby dolls sometimes come with matching panties.  Baby dolls are often trimmed with lace, ruffles, bows and ribbons, optionally with spaghetti straps. Baby Dolls are often made of sheer cloth, like chiffon or sheer mesh. Makes a great women's lingerie gift.

    Back Closure

    This term is used when describing how a bra closes. Traditionally, a back closure bra has two rows of hook and eye closures and three adjustments. Full figure and strapless bras usually have three rows of hook and eye closures as well as three adjustments.

    Back Seams

    Stockings with a seam running up the back of the leg for those that like a more old fashioned, sexy look.

    Backless Bra

    A bra designed with a low cut adjustable back band

    Balconette Bra

    Another name for a demi cup bra. More often a Balconette style bra also includes a little padding to enhance bust size.

    Banded Under wire

    A bra with a banded under wire has an extra piece of fabric below the under wire to give extra control

    Band-less Under wire

    In a bra with a band-less under wire, the under wire is the bottom of the bra. This look is designed to be more natural

    Basque

    A name given to any tight-fitting bodice garment worn by women. Examples of a Basque include a corset, corselette and merry widow.

    Bikini

    A very brief, close-fitting two-piece bathing suit or swimsuit worn by women or a very brief, close-fitting bathing suit or swimsuit worn by men.

    Bikini Panty

    A panty style whose waistband rests below the navel, and on the hips. Usually has a high-cut leg line. The sides can be anything from a string to a thicker side panel. Back coverage depends on the style of the bikini. Bikinis are a super comfortable medium coverage silhouette that won’t show thru under heavier fabrics like denim or wool.

    Bloomers

    An old fashioned form of feminine underwear consisting of loose fitting pants or shorts.

    Boa, Feather Boa

    A long scarf made of feathers.

    Bodice

    The upper sleeveless part of a dress or other type of clothing that covers the breasts.

    Body Briefer

    A shape wears style that looks like a one-piece bathing suit. It has a snap crotch (also called gusset closure) and a control panel at the tummy for support.

    Body Stocking, Bodystocking

    Snug fitting hosiery that offers coverage from the neck or upper body down to the ankles or toes. Hosiery or a tight-fitting garment of stretchy material that covers the body from the shoulders to the thighs (and may have long sleeves or legs reaching down to the ankles).

    Body Suit, Bodysuit

    A form-fitting plus size lingerie garment, which combines the panties and the top. It can be worn with a skirt or slacks as well as in the bedroom and usually goes up to plus sizes. Snug fitting one-piece garment similar to a leotard with legs but may or may not have sleeves.

    Bolero Coat

    A loose fitting, waist length coat or jacket that is open at the front.  Cropped styles are now very popular as well as styles that are made to fit tightly.

    Boned, Boning

    A strip of stiff material is placed in certain areas of the bustier or bra to help structure a desired look or support. Rigid supports sewn vertically into a bustier or corset that helps to maintain a slim, shapely look about the torso. Originally made from bone (hence it's name), but now made of plastic.

    Boy Leg Brief

    Like hot pants, this style of brief has legs that come down to the top of the thigh. The waist sits low on the hips, and the back has full coverage. It is usually seamed in the center front and back for definition. Worn under hip-hugger style bottoms or short skirts to give a smooth line from waist to hip.

    Booty Shorts

    Extremely short shorts which often show some cheek. Also referred to as hot pants or short shorts.

    Boy Shorts

    A women's panty style similar in shape to boy's underwear

    Bra

    The shortened word for brassiere. A woman's close-fitting foundation garment women consisting of shoulder straps, two cups, a center panel, an under bust band, sides, and a back which is worn to support and give contour to the breasts. Bra types are quite varied, depending on style, function, and materials. Styles include front-closure, back-closure, strapless, convertible, push-up, demi-bra, full-cup, three-quarters cup, half-cup, long line, under wire, padded, triangle, soft-cup, shelf-bra, and T-shirt

    Bra Cup

    The fabric in a bra that surrounds and supports the breasts.

    Bra Size

    A bra size is made up of a number (in inches), determined by measuring around the body over the largest portion of the breasts (e.g. 34, 36, 38, etc.); and a letter, determined by measuring under the breasts, then calculating the difference between the two numbers (e.g. B, C, D, etc.). Examples of bra sizes would be 34B, 36C (the average size), 38D, etc. There are a few manufacturers that make bras up to a J cup.  Beyond this cup size, bras usually have to be specially made.

    Bra Types, Types of Bras

    There are numerous bra styles but these are the most common:

    Demi-bra or shelf bra: Covers the lower portion of the breast. Use with low necklines.

    Full support bras are a type of bra that usually has an under wire or plastic boning holding them up. They can be worn by women of any breast size, and are specially suited for those with larger cup sizes.

    Push-up bra: Lifts the breasts to create cleavage.

    Under wire bra: Metal wires in the lower edges of the bra cups support the bust.

    Bralette

    A sexy bra-like top that lacks the usual support features of a real bra.  A Bralette is an unlined, soft cup bra. It resembles a very short crop top. A Bralette is primarily used as a teen bra or sleep bra because they do not offer a significant amount of support.

    Brassiere

    Long form of Bra, a woman's undergarment worn to support and give contour to the breasts.

    Brazilian Back

    A panty style that covers more of the buttocks than a thong, but less than a traditional fullback panty. A triangular back that covers slightly more of the buttocks than a thong, but much less than a full back panty.

    Bridal Lingerie

    Type of bras, bustiers, corsets etc. characterized by sensual attributes (sheer fabric, decorative flourish, racy or risqué) that are worn on wedding nights or for similarly seductive situations.

    Briefs

    Women's underwear where the top of the panty is at the waist, similar to small shorts.

    Brocade

    Rich oriental fabric consisting of raised patterns, often in gold or silver. Rich fabric with a raised pattern

    Brushed Back

    A material backing made from brushed cotton often used in pajamas to give a warm, flannel feel against the skin

    Burn Out

    Alternating patterns of sheer and opaque fabric. A design on fabric, such as velvet, that exposes the sheer, underside material. Similar in appearance to flocking.

    Bust Shaper

    Type of shape wear designed to hold a woman's bust in particular form.

    Bustier

    A bra style top that usually goes all the way to the waist but may be cropped or go to the hips. A bustier may have shoulder straps or be strapless. Bustiers may or may not have supportive boning and detachable garters. The purpose of a bustier is to provide a sexy top with bust support and shape to the waist. Sizes are usually based on the women's bra size.

     

     

    C

     

    Cami

    Short for camisole, a Cami is usually worn as a lingerie undergarment but can also be worn as a sexy top depending on the fabric.  See Camisole

    Cami Bra, Camisole Bra

    A Cami bra or camisole bra is not really a bra, but is a cross between a camisole and a bra, designed to look like a bra.

    Cami Straps, Camisole Straps

    Camisole style straps are actually an extension of the cup or bodice, and give a smooth shoulder line.

    Cami Top, Camisole Top

    Often made of micro-fiber, satin, lace or similar fabric, this camisole-looking shape wear gives a seamless, toned look under knits and other clingy fabrics. It gives very light control and is a perfect solution for sheer, form fitting tops, giving a near seamless look.

    Camisole

    Originally created as an undergarment to wear under blouses, suits, etc. that covers from bust to waist. Camisoles are usually sleeveless and offer little if any breast support, though some styles now have a built in bra for additional support. Camisoles are now often worn as sexy tops.  It can be worn under sheer blouses or in place of a blouse. A camisole makes a great sexy lingerie gift since there is no sizing difficulty associated with it since it can be worn in many different ways.

    Camouflage

    Fabric pattern inspired by military fatigues designed to help disguise military troupes, camouflage is a random pattern usually consisting of earth tones, although the popularity of this pattern has created camouflage in pinks, blues, etc and it is now sometimes used as a print on trendy undergarments.

    Car Wash Skirt

    A skirt with multiple splits.

    Catsuit

    A one piece, full body jumpsuit usually constructed out of stretchy, skin tight, sexy fabric such as Lycra, Spandex, or even PVC. Catsuits can also be sheer, sleeveless or come with a pantyhose footing or stirrups.

    Center Gore

    The center gore is the piece of fabric, which connects the cups of a bra at the center front.

    Chantilly Lace

    A delicate, ornamental lace usually made from an open, six-sided mesh background with floral designs, often in black or white with an outlined design pattern and used to embellish women's lingerie.

    Charmeuse

    A satin finished silk fabric that is opaque (not sheer).  This term is often used interchangeably with “satin”

    Chemise

    A straight-hanging short lingerie or lounge gown with thin straps on the shoulders used as sleepwear. A chemise usually extends down to the thigh in length. Panties and a robe are common matching items that are found with a chemise.

    Chiffon

    An extremely light, thin and sheer fabric usually made of nylon, rayon or silk.

    Choker, Collar

    A snug fitting necklace that fits the neck like a collar.  Chokers can be made of rhinestones, velvet, leather, etc.

    Chopper Lace, Chopper Bar Lace

    An open net lace background that has been embroidered with a slightly raised, shiny pattern.

    Cincher

    A cincher or waist cincher is an adjustable “mini corset” which usually fits around the torso, running from under the bust to the top of the hips with a lace-up back.

    Clear Straps

    Transparent straps on bras made from stretch synthetics worn with garments where strap invisibility is needed. Clear straps can be at the shoulders and also between the cups in order to accommodate plunging necklines.

    Cleavage

    The separation or hollow visible between a woman's breasts when a low-cut garment is worn.

    Combed Cotton

    Type of extra-soft cotton. When cotton or another fabric is "combed" the shortest, additional fibers of a batch are removed. The result produces high-quality yarns with excellent strength and softness.

    Comfort Straps

    Various types of bra straps that is cushioned or constructed wider for more comfort around the shoulder area.

    Contour Bra

    A bra designed to help create a shapely, pleasing outline. Typically padded, Contour bras are usually padded, have under wires and provide shape and support.

    Contoured Fit

    The garment, whether it is clothing or underwear, is cut and sewn to the shape of the body or body part for a more comfortable fit.

    Control Brief, Control Panty

    A panty shaped like a brief but designed to flatten the stomach, bottom or waist and give support.

    Control Top

    Pantyhose with Spandex in the panty area for a soft girdle like or "control" effect.

    Convertible Bra

    A bra that is designed with straps that may allow a variety of styles. The straps may be moved, removed and adjusted to create looks such as halter, strapless, crisscross or open back bra.

    Corset

    Type of tight-fitting, body-enhancing undergarment used to create an hour glass-shaped figure shape. Today, corsets are more comfortable but are still usually boned and laced. It is designed to make women look slimmer by pulling in the waist and lifting the breasts.  Most corsets have lacing at the back, making the corset adjustable. Most corsets have garters for stockings and many have detachable garters.

    Cowl

    A loose, draped neckline.

    Crop Top

    A very short top that stretches just below the breasts.

    Crochet Knit

    A large, open knit pattern that resembles crocheting.

    Crotchless

    A slit or opening in the fabric covering the crotch area. Often, panties, pantyhose, bodysuits, and bodystockings are available with this convenience feature.

    Crushed Velvet

    Velvet with a crinkly, wrinkly look; sometimes shiny or shimmers but not smooth.

    Cuban Foot

    Hosiery with a contrasting colored sole (usually black) and tapered blocks at the ankle.

    Culottes

    A wide leg version of a boy short.  Culottes can range in length from very short to mid thigh.  Beyond that length, culottes are often called gauchos or gaucho pants.

    Cupless

    This can be either an article of clothing or lingerie with an open or cut out bodice, exposing the breasts

     

     

    D

     

    Décolletage

    A low neckline on a woman's garment.  This term is also used interchangeably with “cleavage”.

    Décolleté

    A bra style with a very low-cut front panel to create a dramatic cleavage-enhancing look.  See Demi Cup Bra.

    Demi Bra, Demi Cup Bra

    Low-cut bra designed to enhance the cleavage. A demi cup (or demi) style bra means a contoured bra with under wire design that has a large portion of the upper half of the cup removed to expose the upper part of the breasts. The shoulder straps are also set farther apart or wide –set to expose as much of the chest and upper breasts without exposing the nipple. Such bras are often referred to as being décolleté‚ and are usually worn with low cut clothing or if the bodice is cut low, wide or square. Many find this style bra very attractive.  Demi Bras are also called Balconette or a shelf bra.

    Demi Cups

    The fabric triangle of the bra that covers the breast, designed as a half cup, the demi cup usually runs straight across the breast just above the nipple and has a low center front.  Also called "half cup".

    Demi Cup Bra

    A bra that reveals the upper portion of the breasts and may also expose the nipple while giving good support. Also known as Shelf Cups.

    Demi Toe

    The toe of a piece of hosiery is reinforced using a heavier gauge (number of rows of thread/area) of nylon, creating a more durable area.

    Denier

    This is the thickness of one thread of nylon used in making hosiery. The lower the number in denier, the lighter and finer the yarn, and thus the sheerer the stocking. 15-denier fabric is very thin and transparent.  A hair from the average human head is about 50 Denier.

    Dot Net, Dotted Mesh

    Sheer net fabric decorated with evenly spaced opaque dots.

    Dot Swiss, Dotted Swiss

    Evenly spaced raised dots on fabric may or may not be a sheer material.

    Drawstring Waist

    A waistband designed with a fabric cord that can be pulled to adjust to an individual's own waist size.

     

     

    E

     

    Elaborate

    Something that is very detailed and decorative as in "an elaborate lace pattern" or the jeans were elaborately decorated with rhinestones and lace. 

    Elastane

    A fabric designed to add stretch to clothing and lingerie.  Elastane is often used as a component in making stretch jeans and other types of clothing that is designed to be stretchy but holds it's shape.

    Elastic

    A band of rubber or latex that has the ability to stretch and then return to it's original size. Often used in the waistbands of pants, underwear, the ends of sleeves.

    Elegant

    Of seemingly effortless beauty or refined and tasteful in appearance, suggesting taste, ease, and wealth

    Embossed

    Material that is embellished with a raised pattern created by pressure or embroidery such as "brocaded silk", "embossed satin", "embossed leather", "raised needlework" etc.

    Embellished

    Material or clothing that has been decorated, sometimes quite heavily, with appliqués, rhinestones, buckles, buttons, bows, embroidery, fabric paint or other decorations that have either been bonded to or sewn on to the fabric or clothing.

    Embroidery

    Decorative designs on fabric, made from needlework by hand or by machines.  Hand embroidered items are generally more expensive due to the time spent doing the embroidery.

    Epaulet

    An ornamental strip of fabric on the shoulder.  These can range from a simple piece of fabric to the elaborate fringed epaulets often seen on military uniforms.

    Evening Sheer,
    Ultra Sheer

    A stocking that is very sheer and delicate, normally utilizing 15 or less Denier nylon thread.

    Evening Wear, Eveningwear

    Men's or women's clothing to wear on formal occasions in the evening.  Also called formalwear, evening dress, evening clothes.

    Eyelash Lace

    Lace garment with strands at the edges that resemble eyelashes.

    Eyelet

    Round metal rings used for lacing or decoration.  Although these are used widely for other purposes, think about the metal reinforced holes on your tennis shoes.

    Eyelet Lace, Eyelet Trim

    Eyelet trim is defined as a fabric that has holes punched in it, and stitching (embroidery) is applied to create a design. It is available in several widths, ruffled or flat.  It may be single sided or double sided.  It most often is seen in white, off white, or beige.  Eyelet lace can have either a mono-chromatic, or "one color" look, where the stitching thread is in the same color as the background fabric or in a contrasting, colored thread to make a more decorative pattern.

     

     

    F

     

    Faux Fur, Fake Fur, Fun Fur

    Man made fur.  This is not taken from animals so it is animal friendly and vegan friendly. This fabric can exactly imitate true animal fur or come in a wide variety of colors, patterns and textures.  Also called “fake fur” and “fun fur”.  Quality faux fur can be hard to distinguish from the real thing and offers an animal friendly fur alternative.

    Faux Leather

    Man made imitation leather.  This is not taken from animals so it is animal friendly and vegan friendly. Quality faux leather can be hard to distinguish from the real thing and offers an animal friendly leather alternative; however, inexpensive faux leather can look like plastic.  Also referred to as PU, short for polyurethane.

    Faux Pearls

    Man made imitation pearls

    Fence Net

    A large, thin open net fabric often used in hosiery, bodysuits, and bodystockings.  The size of the openings in the net can range from fairly small to quite large.  Think "chain link fence".

    Fingerless Gloves, Glovettes

    Gloves that have no fingers, but instead usually have a loop through which a finger is inserted to hold the gloves in place.

    Fishnet

    An open mesh fabric that has the appearance of netting and is often used to make stockings, hosiery, bodysuits, body stockings and other clothing.

    Fit and Flair

    A dress style characterized by a form-fitting bodice with a skirt which flairs out towards the hemline, often with pleats or folds.

    Foam Cup, Foam Cup Bra

    The padding in the cup of the bra is made of sturdy foam.  Foam padding does not bunch during washing and will give a smooth look to the cup.

    Foundations, Foundation Garment

    An old term for shape wear, this term refers to a woman's supporting undergarment, such as a corset or girdle worn to give shape to the contours of the body.  Restrictive and uncomfortable in the past, today's shape wear fits and feels like a second skin and smoothing and creating curves or helping hide figure flaws.

    Flat Lock Seams

    Seams that are sewn flat for less bulk and less abrasion against the skin.

    Flocked

    Design or pattern on fabric that is not actually part of the fabric but bonded to the surface

    Flocking

    Fabric decoration made from very short velvety fiber.  See Flocked

    Flutter

    A panty that has elastic at the waist and is loose on the bottom and legs.

    Fly

    An opening in the front of shorts or pants that can be closed with a zipper, buttons or Velcro.  Sometimes it might just be an overlapping flap.

    Fly Front

    An opening in the front of underwear, pants, and shorts that can be closed with a zipper, buttons or Velcro. A mock fly front looks like it has real a fly front but is actually closed.

    Foot Socks, Footies

    Hosiery with a top that does not rise above the ankle. Also known as "Footies".

    Frame

    The frame of a bra holds the cups and sides together, and runs from the center of the bra, around the cups, and around to the sides.

    French Cut Pantyhose

    Pantyhose with a decorative panty sewn in.

    French Cut Panties

    Women's underpants, cut higher on the outer thigh

    French Heel Stockings, French Heeled Stockings

    Back-seamed stockings with a reinforced heel section that reaches to the toes. This reinforced portion is generally made of a contrasting color or fabric and is thought to appeal to many foot fetishists. The difference between these stockings and Cuban heeled stockings is that the French heeled portion tapers off to a point at the top (where it meets the back seam).

    French Net

    Very coarse, six sided open mesh fabric.

    Fringe

    A decoration or decorative trim consisting of a row of hanging threads or strips usually at the hemline or bodice.

    Frog Closure

    A type of closure, often seen in oriental designs, consisting of a fancy knot that is inserted into a closed loop.

    Front Close, Front Close Bra, Front Closure

    A type of bra closure that is usually hook, barrel or clasp that rests between the breasts in the center front. A bra that closes in the center front with either a plastic barrel closure or a hook and eye closure. This bra is a good style for plunging or v-necklines.

    Full Brief

    A panty style with a waistband that rests at the natural waist and has full bottom coverage with a low cut leg line.

    Full Cup Coverage Bra

    A bra with the fabric cup covering the entire breast. A full cup bra completely covers most of the breast, giving more coverage and more support. A full cup bra will not cause a crease or indentation along the top of the breast.

    Full Fashion

    Stocking material is knitted flat in sheets, cut to the correct size and a seam up the back connects the two sides.  As a result of decreasing stitches over the calf to make the hose narrower in the ankle, small "fashion markings" or loops are visible running parallel to either side of the seam.

    Full-Figure, Full Figure

    Women who wear bras sizes 32-36DD and 38-42C-DD and larger are classified as full figure women. Bras made in these sizes are usually designed to give additional support. Common features include padding, wider shoulder straps and triple hook and eye closures

    Full-Figured Bra, Full Figure Bra

    Women's bra designed for bra sizes 32-42C, D, DD, or larger and covers a larger area than average bras. A heavier fabric is used to provide additional support; the straps are wider and sometimes padded for extra comfort.

    Full-Support Bra, Full Support Bra

    Type of bra that usually has an under wire or plastic boning holding them up. They can be worn by women of any breast size, and are specially suited for those with larger cup sizes. These bras offer a shapely cut and are built more like bikini tops than underwear. These also come in padded or unpadded version and are flattering on any figure type

    Fully-Padded Bra, Padded Bra

    A fully padded bra is designed to give a smooth, seamless look and uses fiberfill or foam to enhance the size of small breasts by up to a full size.

     

     

    G

     

    Garter

    A piece of elastic with metal or plastic clasps at the end worn which attaches to the top of a stocking to prevent it from slipping down. May or may not be removable - something to keep in mind if stockings won't be used. Think garter belt.  A garter can also be an elastic band worn around the top of a stocking and leg to keep it from slipping down.  Think wedding garter.

    Garter Belt

    An article of lingerie that consists of adjustable waistband and garter straps; used to hold up stockings.  Occasionally there will be styles with more than four garters.  Garter belts are made in a variety of styles and colors. Lingerie fashion etiquette dictates that the color and design of the garter belt match the stockings and panties or G String

    Garter Straps

    Elastic straps that are usually adjustable in length, which attach by a rubber and metal or plastic clip to the tops of stockings.  These are sometimes simply referred to as garters.

    Gartini

    A combination garter belt with a built in panty.

    Gauge

    The number of threads per 1 ½” in a single knitted row. 51 gauge means 51 threads per 1-½ inches. The more threads per area the higher the gauge. Increasing the gauge makes a stocking more like silk and adds to its durability. To manufacture a higher gauge stocking increases the cost.

    Gauze

    A loosely woven, lightweight, sheer fabric.

    Georgette

    Sheer crepe fabric with a dull pebbly surface.

    Girdle

    Any undergarment that is close fitting, often boned and usually elasticized, that extends from the waist to below the hips. With the new fabrics and designs available, the term girdle is rarely used and has become replaced with the word “shaper” or “shapewear”

    Gown

    A long dress or sleepwear item, like a chemise, but can vary in length from thigh to ankle length. This word is used for lingerie and sleepwear as well as formalwear.

    Gripper Elastic

    Elastic designed to gently grip the skin to hold a garment in place. This type of elastic is often seen on strapless bras or thigh-high stockings.

    G-String, G String

    A panty, similar to a thong, with a small front area connected with thin, elastic string in back and around the waist leaving the buttocks exposed. Many women's wear these under pants, shorts, or other clothing to avoid having a panty line.

    G-String Back, G String Back

    Lingerie, often a teddy or teddiette, with a thin piece of elastic used in the back and sometimes around the waist, exposing all of the buttocks.

    Gusset

    The triangular or rectangular lining in the crotch area of the panty or shape wear. A gusset is usually made of cotton.

    Gusset Closure

    This is a hook and eye or snap crotch closure

     

     

    H

     

    Half Cup Bra

    A bra in which the top half of the breasts are exposed and the nipples may or may not be covered.  See also Demi Cup Bra or Shelf Bra.

    Half Slip

    A slip is an undergarment worn under clothing if it is sheer or to prevent clinging. A half-slip serves the same purpose as a full slip but it is cut like a skirt, whereas a full slip is cut like a dress.

    Halter Bra

    A bra style featuring straps that fastens behind the neck. This bra is perfect for backless dresses. This bra style can often convert to crisscross or one shoulder styles.

    Halter Neck

    A dress, bra or undergarment style where the fabric wraps behind and around the neck for support.  Halters may tie, hook, clasp or be a solid piece of fabric that slides over the head.

    Halter Top

    A sleeveless short top that is held in place by a narrow band of cloth that goes around the back of the neck.   Halter tops usually tie, hook, or clasp behind the neck and across the back, leaving the arms, shoulders, and back bare.  This term may also apply to other clothing that feature a halter top style bodice such as dresses or Catsuits

    High Cut Brief

    Also known as a "French Cut" brief, this panty is high cut on the leg with a full coverage back.

    High-Cut Panty

    A panty that is cut high over the thigh and sides but with total back coverage.

    High Cut Rio

    A panty style similar to the string bikini, but with moderate back coverage that looks more like a "v" instead of the "u" which is found in full coverage backs. Many times, the waistband in the high-cut Rio is just a 1” to 2” piece of elastic.

    High Waist Brief

    Shape wear with a brief style panty and a high waist to give shaping and support to the waistline.

    Hikini

    Panty variation on traditional brief or bikini featuring higher cut leg-holes for a longer leg.  Similar to a French Cut brief or bikini.

    Hip Shaper

    Shape wear piece designed to hold a woman's hips in particular form.  This piece of lingerie or foundation garment is used to enhance the shape of the hips or to help hide flaws.

    Hipster

    A type of panty or brief that is cut low in the front and back. This style of underwear is designed to wear under low-rise jeans and trousers.

    Hook and Eye

    A closure or fastener used to secure bras, corsets, some shape wear and other garments. The fastener includes a small hook secured to one side of the garment that grasps a small loop (the eye) secured to the other side.

    Hook Back, Hook and Eye Back

    A garment closure that secures in the back with one or more hook and eye closures.

    Hook Front, Hook and Eye Front

    A garment closure that secures on the side with one or more hook and eye closures.

    Hook Side, Hook Sides

    A garment that closes at the side or sides with one or more hook and eyes or snaps.  Hook side closures are often seen in corsets, bustiers, and Catsuits.  This closure helps you get in and out of the garment but providing a skin tight fit when closed.

    Hosiery

    Leg wear, body wear, or lingerie that may include socks, stockings, bodysuits, bodystockings, and pantyhose.

    Hosiery Types

    These are the most commonly seen types of hosiery:

    Control Top Pantyhose: provides shaping support in the panty section.

    Fishnet Hose: Generally, a loosely woven diamond pattern that can either be small or quiet large.

    French or Lace Pantyhose: A lace panty is sewn into the pantyhose.

    Lace Top Stockings: a lace band at the top of the stockings replaces the plain welt.

    Suspender Hose: A section of the hose is cut out to simulate the look of stockings and a garter belt, and often worn with panties, thong or G String. 

    Hot Pants, Hotpants, Booty Shorts, Short Shorts

    These are shorts, also known as "short shorts", which are primarily worn by women. These are very short, tight shorts, usually made out of cotton, nylon, Lycra, or Spandex. They are meant to show off the buttocks and the legs. Hot Pants are also known as “Daisy Dukes”. "Daisy Dukes" are extremely tight short-shorts worn by women. They were named after the character of Daisy Duke in the 1980's television series, The Dukes of Hazard, and more recently seen worn by Jessica Simpson in the movie version.

     

     

    I

     

    Inner Tie

    A hidden tie on the inside of a garment, usually a robe, to help keep it closed.

    Iridescent

    Fabric that appears to change color or sparkle as it moves.

    Irregulars

    Clothing or hosiery that contains minor imperfections in dimensions, size, color or knit but without obvious mends, runs, breaks or substantial damage the fabric. Irregular clothing or stockings usually do not impair their wearing quality but be careful and always try these on before purchasing.

     

     

    J

     

    Jacquard

    Type of fabric that is woven to create the effect of an intricate pattern or print.

    Jersey Knit

    Any knit fabric that has a smooth, flat face and a more textured, but uniform back. Used for panties, briefs, t-shirts, socks and other garments.

     

     

    K

     

    Keyhole

    An oval-shaped opening, often in the bodice or back of a dress, jumpsuit, or Catsuit.

    Kick Pleat

    An inverted pleat often used at the bottom of a skirt to give it more room for leg movement.  This is often a feature in longer length pencil style skirts.

    Kimono

    Oriental themed or styled, loose fitting light robe.

    Knee Highs

    Short hosiery that comes up to just below the knee. Some are styled with elastic tops and stay up without the help of garters. They became very popular with the advent of women's slacks. Knee high socks are also a style of socks that reaches to the knee.

    Knee Socks

    Socks that reach from the toes to just below the knees with an elasticized top so they stay up.

    Knit Fabric

    Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Looping the yarns around each other holds knit fabrics together. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise. Knit fabrics tend to stretch and conform to the shape of your body.

     

     

    L

     

    Lace

    A delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open web like pattern which can be floral, geometric, etc.

    Lace Bra

    Usually sheer to semi-sheer bra made entirely or almost entirely of lace.

    Lace Edging

    A type of decorative trim, often used in lingerie, that is applied to necklines, hems, straps etc.

    Lace Top Stockings

    Stockings that have a lace material sewn onto the top of the stocking but unlike stay up stockings these do require a garter to keep them up.

    Lace-Up Back, Lace Up Back

    A closure in the back of a garment, such as a bustier or corset, which is used either for size adjustment or decoration.

    Lace-Up Front, Lace Up Front

    A closure in the front of a garment, such as a bustier or corset, which is used either for size adjustment or decoration.

    Lace-Up Side, Lace Up Side

    A closure on the side of a garment, such as a bustier or corset, which is used either for size adjustment or decoration.

    Ladder Stitching

    Garment stitching that resembles ladder rungs or the steps on a ladder.

    Lame΄

    Pronounced "lamay", a brocaded clothing fabric made from any of various fibers combined with tinsel filling threads

    Laminate, Laminated

    A sheet of fabric or material made by bonding two or more sheets or layers which may or may not be of the same materials.

    Latex

    A stretchy, rubber type materials often used to create extremely tight, form fitting clothing often popular for fetish wear.

    Latex Free Bra

    Bra that contains absolutely no latex.  This bra is designed for women who are allergic to latex. A latex free bra may contain nylon, spandex, or other elastic fabrics.

    Leather

    Animal hide which usually refers to cow, calf, goat or pig skins used to make shoes, boots, outerwear and purses

    Leg Shaper

    Shape wear piece designed to hold a women's legs in particular form.  This is useful for hiding perceived figure flaws.

    Leotard

    Skin tight knit hose covering the body from the waist to the feet worn by acrobats and dancers and as stockings by women and girls.  May also refer to sleeveless, short sleeved, or long sleeved bodysuits, worn with or without tights, by dancers, gymnasts and other athletes engaging in activities requiring unrestricted body movement.  

    Lounge Pants

    Loose-fitting pants constructed from soft, flowing fabrics designed to wear for leisure activities.

    Lined Crotch

    An extra panel of fabric sewn into the crotch for added comfort.

    Lined Cup

    A bra with a lining in the cup. This lining gives additional support and added opaqueness to the cup, as in “lined lace cup”.

    Lining

    A layer of fabric sewn into the underside of a garment designed to add comfort, create smooth lines, or to add opaqueness to sheer fabrics.

    Liquid Filled Bra

    Type of bra or bra insert which features cup pads filled with water for women who want to enhance their bust line.

    Long Johns, Long Underwear

    Type of long, ankle length, fitted drawers, usually in a heavier knit cotton or cotton blend, often with a waffled texture.  Also referred to as “long johns” or "long handled underwear".

    Long Line Bra

    Bra whose fabric extends down to the navel or waist for a bodice effect. This can offer the shaping of a corset.  Sometimes referred to as a "Basque".

    Loungewear, Lounge Wear

    Clothing suitable for lounging, such as pajamas, slips, robes, loose-fitting t-shirts, etc.

    Low Back Bra

    Bra with low back strap designed to be worn with backless dresses.

    Low Rise, Low Rider

    Style of underwear that sits low on the hips for an invisible look when worn under low rise jeans and trousers. The rise is the measurement between the waistband and the first horizontal seam of a panty. The average brief or panty has a 9" rise. A low rise is when the rise measurement is 7" or less.

    Lurex

    Fabric made of or containing a decorative metallic thread woven into the fabric for a shimmering metallic appearance.

    Lycra

    An extremely elastic fiber made of synthetic fiber widely used in lingerie and all other types of clothing as it helps clothing to retain it’s shape while giving the clothing additional stretch and give.

     

     

    M

     

    Marabou

    Downy feathers of marabou storks used for trimming garments or may be a man-made, soft fluffy feather-like material, sometimes hard to distinguish from the real thing.

    Maternity Bra

    Type of bra that provides extra support, and is expandable, using stretch fabric, to grow with the expectant mother as her pregnancy matures.

    Maternity Panty

    Type of panty made from fabric designed to stretch to fit during pregnancy. Maternity Panties often have no seams or elastic in the front for further comfort.

    Matte

    A type of finish or fabric style with a flat, non-shiny look.

    Merino Wool

    Type of soft wool that is gleaned during the sheep's second or third shearing. After the third shearing, wool grows back coarser and thicker.  This type of wool is usually softer and less scratchy than other wools.

    Merry Widow

     

    A corset, often strapless with demi cups, and comes to a point in the center front. It can also come with detachable garters to wear with stockings

    Mesh

    Type of fabric, often made of synthetic that is full of small openings like a net. Used for lingerie/underwear as fabric for a full piece or as inserts.  Mesh is also used for sheer, sexy dresses and other types of clothing. Mesh can be sheer or semi-sheer.

    Micro-fiber, Microfiber, Micro-fiber

    An extremely fine synthetic fiber that can be woven into textiles with the texture and drape of natural-fiber clothe but with enhanced stretch, wash-ability, breath-ability, and water repellency.

    Micro Mini Skirt

    A very short skirt with a hemline that can extend anywhere from just below the buttocks.  Some styles often show a little cheek.  Do not expect a micro mini skirt to pass the "underwear test".  FYI - "underwear test" - put on the skirt, bend over at the waist and look in the mirror to see what everyone else is going to see the first time you bend over in public.

    Mini Skirt, Miniskirt

    A very short skirt with a hemline that can extend anywhere from just below the buttocks (micro mini) to mid-thigh.  Not all mini skirts pass the "underwear test" as the actual length of the skirt while worn will vary depending on the length of your legs and the shape of your backside.

    Minimize Bra, Minimizer Bra

    Type of bra that shapes the breasts outward to reduce projection, while maintaining support.  This type of bra is designed to make your breasts look smaller.

    Mock

    Simulated, a copy or imitation of something, as in “mock fly”.

    Mock Seams, Seamed Hosiery

    A false seam sewn into the back of a seamless stocking that was produced on a circular knitting machine.

    Modal®

    Modal® Micro is a trademarked Micro-fiber from Lenzing. Modal garments usually remain pleasantly soft and smooth. Described as feeling like "skin on skin".

    Molded Bra

    Type of bra that has cups that are machine molded. Molded Bra cups are shaped to give the breast a natural look. Molded Bras are usually unlined and may be either soft cup or under wire. They are seamless to create a smooth silhouette, unless overlaid with lace.

    Monofilament
    Yarn

    A single strand nylon yarn that has a semi shiny appearance and tends to be less resilient than multifilament yarn. All 15-denier yarn is monofilament, and so is a small quantity of 20-denier yarn. All other nylon hosiery yarns are multifilament.

    Multifilament
    Yarn

    Nylon yarn made of several tiny stands twisted together, 20, 30 and 40-denier are multifilament yarns made up of several strands of thinner nylon combined by twisting. The twisting process gives a slightly softer feel to the yarn and imparts more resilience or give and less shine to the fabric of a nylon stocking made from multifilament yarn. Stockings made using these yarns can also be very sheer and have the ability to help cover any small blemishes.

    Multi-Pack, Multi Pack

    Identical underwear items that comes packaged in groups of 2 or more.

    Multi-way Bra, Multiway Bra

    A bra that can be worn with or without straps under strapless or halter neck tops.  Also called a "convertible" bra

    Muscle Shirt

    A sleeveless T-shirt, often tight fitting, that shows off muscle development in the arms.

     

     

    N

     

    Needle Count    

    The total number of needles used in knitting stockings. The higher the needle counts the closer the stitches.

    Negligee

    A light sheer lingerie robe or a sheer nightdress with lace trim, usually designed to be revealing

    Net, Netting

    See through cloth that is made of very fine threads woven together so that there are small evenly spaced holes between them.

    Nightgown, Night Gown

    A loose garment or any length, worn as sleepwear.

    Nightshirt, Night Shirt

    A long, loose shirt worn as sleepwear.

    No Fly

    No convenience opening in the front of shorts or pants.

    Non-Stretch Straps

    Non-stretch straps, also known as rigid straps, are usually used for sports bras or full-figured bras.

    Novelty Underwear

    Underwear item that has special, often light-hearted or cute, i.e. shiny satin men's thongs or heart-print boxer shorts. Novelty underwear is sometimes associated with Valentine's Day or other holidays and makes a great sexy gift idea.

    No-Wire Bra, No Wire Bra

    Type of bra with no under wires designed for increased comfort. Some No-Wire bras give light to moderate support, for petite to average figures. Other styles may furnish full support.

    Nursing Bra

    A nursing bra is an extra-support bra that comes with removable flaps on the cups, allowing a new mother to nurse her baby without totally removing her bra.

    Nylon

    A synthetic fiber that, along with polyester, make underwear fabrics more easily washed and wrinkle-resistant.

     

     

    O

     

    Opaque

    Material or fabric that is impervious to light and cannot be seen through, meaning the fabric is not sheer.

    Open Bust

    Little or no coverage is provided over the breasts. In general, open bust means there is no cup on the garment.

    Open Crotch

    Convenience opening in the crotch.  See “Crotchless”

    Open Rear

    No fabric or elastic covers the area over the buttocks.

    Open Tip

    For a garment described as “open tip”, there is a cup, but with an opening over the nipple area.

    Over Knee

    Stockings meant to rise up just over the knee. Shorter than standard thigh high stockings. Usually, they are too short to be worn with a garter belt.

    Over The Knee Socks, OTK

    Socks that rise up just over the knee and are usually shorter than a standard thigh high stockings. Not usually worn with a garter belt.  Popular with punk and harajuku style dress.

     

     

    P

     

    Padded Bra

    Type of bra with padded fiberfill cups. Padding is designed to add size and definition for a well-proportioned look to smaller bust lines.

    Pajama, Pajamas

    Loose-fitting sleepwear or nightclothes worn for sleeping or lounging.

    Panne΄

    A fabric similar to velvet that has been flattened to achieve the desired look.

    Panne΄ Velvet

    Velvet that has been flattened in one direction.

    Pantliner, Pant Liner

    A pant liner is any undergarment that begins at the waist and extends down past the mid-calf. A pant liner can be pantaloon-like and worn as a slip for unlined pants, or it can be form fitting to slim and smooth the legs. Can also be called an under liner. Now many pants are constructed with a lining, especially if the pants are made of wool.

    Panty Styles, Panty Types

    The main panty styles are:

    Bikini: Top of the panty is below the waist.

    Boy Shorts: Style similar in shape to boy's underwear

    Briefs: Top of the panty is at the waist.

    French Cut: Leg opening extends higher than normal.

    G-String: The rear panel is very small, usually smaller than a thong and may be nothing more that a thing strip of elastic.

    String Bikini: A narrow strip of fabric or elastic joints the front and rear panels. Also called “string side”

    Tap Pants: Shorts with loose fitting legs, generally rides higher on the sides.

    Thong: Minimal coverage on the rear, usually a string or narrow band of material or elastic.

    Panty

    A general term for women's underwear. Panties come in a variety of styles.

    Pantyhose

    Nylon, silk or other material that stretches to fit next to skin and covers legs from hip to toe, or with open foot.

    Patent Leather, PVC

    Real or synthetic leather with a smooth, shiny surface on one side.

    Peek-a-boo cups

    Cups with a slit or other opening that partially exposes the breasts or nipples.

    Peignoir, Peignoir Set

    A dressing gown made of very thin, often sheer, material which usually comes with a matching robe.  A negligee or dressing gown.  A peignoir or peignoir set is often associated with lingerie purchased for a bridal trousseau.

    Petticoat

    An underskirt, often with fancy edging, intended to add more visual interest or fullness to a dress, skirt or costume.  May be short, mid-length, or full length.

    Petite Figure Bra

    A petite figure bra is a type of bra designed for women with smaller breasts.  These bras are usually made of lightweight stretchy material.

    Pima Cotton

    A very strong, yet very smooth and soft, high-grade cotton of medium staple developed from selected Egyptian cottons.

    Piping

    A twisted cord covered with a biased-cut fabric that is sewn into seams or garment edges as decoration.

    Polka Dot

    A fabric pattern with evenly spaced dots of a contrasting color spaced throughout. 

    Polyester

    Synthetic, man-made fabric with great ability to stretch and resist wrinkling.

    Polyamide

    A wrinkle resistant synthetic fabric.

    Plunge Bra

    A plunge bra is designed to expose more of the breast for a sexier look. Plunge bras create the appearance of increased cleavage because of their deep (plunging) front, angled cups and thin center gore. Plunge bras differ from push-up bras in that they are not heavily padded.

    Plunge, Plunging

    Any type of dress, top or bodice with a deep cut front or back designed specifically to show more cleavage or back.

    Plus Size

    An extra long or "oversize" clothing size.  Plus size clothing generally begins at about size 14 to size 16 and goes up.

    Pouch

    The fabric triangle creating the cup area in a man's thong or g-string.

    Princess Line

    A dress, coat, or blouse made of several pieces contoured to fit the body.

    Princess Seams

    Visible seams that resemble an hourglass shape for a figure flattering look.

    Pull-On Bra, Pull On Bra

    Type of bra made in a stretchy material and is designed to pull on.  This type of bra does not have of hook and eye closures.

    Push-Up Bra, Push Up Bra

    A push up bra uses padding and wires to push the breasts up, enhancing the cleavage, making the breasts look larger and fuller.

    Push-up Cups, Push Up Cups

    Push up cups contain padding that is sometimes removable.  These cups are designed to push the breasts up to make the breasts look fuller, larger and to create a more flattering cleavage.

     

     

    Q

     

    Queen Size

    Any clothing, lingerie, stockings, pantyhose, or outerwear sized to fit the heavier woman. Queen size is usually considered an extension of standard garments into a larger size. See “Plus Size”

     

     

    R

     

    Racer-Back Bra, Racer Back Bra

    Style of bra named after racing swimsuits that also have straps meeting in a V shape on the back between the shoulder blades. This bra style is worn with sleeveless tops, and also prevents straps from slipping off the shoulders.

    Racerback, Racer Back

    Style of clothing named after racing swimsuits that have straps meeting in a V shape on the back between the shoulder blades.

    Rayon

    A synthetic, silk-like fabric, but less expensive than silk. This fabric does not trap heat against the body, and absorbs moisture. It is a comfortable fabric against skin, making it popular for lingerie.

    Regal Lace

    An elegant pattern of lace that simply a particular pattern of lace that was given the name "Regal" by the fabric manufacturer.

    Reinforced

    The stress areas such as the toe or panty portion which have been strengthened with yarns of heavier denier.

    Reinforced Heel

    Hosiery with extra or heavier fabric in the heel to enhance durability.

     

    Reinforced Toe

    Hosiery with extra or heavier fabric in the toe.  Hosiery with a reinforced toe is more resistant to runs starting in the toe area than is hosiery without a reinforced toe.

    Removable Garters

    Elastic straps on corsets or other lingerie that attaches to stockings to hold them up, but which can be removed if stockings won't be used.  This is a useful feature if you want to wear your corset as a sexy top.

    Removable Pads

    Bra padding that can be removed from the bra cups.

    Rhinestones

     

    Simulated diamonds, fake diamonds or gemstones.  May be made of plastic, acrylic or cut glass/crystal.  Cut glass or crystal is considered superior in brilliance and appearance than acrylic or plastic.  Quality rhinestones made of cut glass and crystal are usually called "Austrian Crystal".  While "Austrian Crystal" usually does come from Austria, only rhinestones actually made by Swarovski can use the name "Swarovski Crystal" or "Swarovski Austrian Crystal".

    Ribbed

    Fabric that has raised vertical lines woven into the knit

    Rib Knit

    Type of elasticized knit with raised ridges Ribbed knits can be used for complete underwear pieces, such as briefs, boxer briefs, tees and tanks, and is also used for trim on clothing such as leg bands, cuffs, neck bands, etc.

    Rigid

    Stiff or does not stretch

    Rings and Slides

    Rings and slides are used to adjust the length of straps and may be placed in the front or in the back of the bra, depending on how smooth a look is desired. (We always wondered what those things were called that adjusted bra straps)

    Rise

    The rise is the measurement between the waistband and the first horizontal seam of a panty. The average brief or panty has a 9" rise.  A low rise is when the rise measurement is 7” or less.

    Rivets

    A flat, round-headed metal fastener that goes through the fabric and is flattened out to form another head.

    Robe

    A long, loose-flowing outer garment worn as a dressing gown or bathrobe over swimwear, lingerie, costumes, or dancewear.

     

     

    S

     

    Sandal Foot, Sandalfoot

    A type of hosiery with a nude toe, meaning no heavier yarn is used in the toe than in the leg.

    Sari

    An outer garment worn chiefly by women of India and Pakistan, consisting of a length of lightweight cloth with one end wrapped about the waist to form a skirt and the other draped over the shoulder or covering the head.

    Sarong

    A loose-fitting skirt-like garment, formed by wrapping a strip of clothing around the lower part of the body.  Often used as a swimwear cover.

    Satin

    A smooth fabric of silk or rayon that has a glossy face, a dull back, and a slippery feel.

    Scallop

    An ornamental curved border on fabric or lace.

    Scallop Edges, Scalloped Edges

    A decorative fabric edge shaped similar to a line of scallops (or shells) lined up edge to edge.

    Scoop

    U-shaped curve at the neckline that can be a variety of sizes or depths.

    Seamed

    Any bra that has seams running though the cup. A seamed bra tends to give more support than a seamless bra because seams determine the cup's exact shape and size. The best supporting bra has seamed cups made in three pieces.

    Seamless

    A piece of clothing or lingerie without seems which is designed for additional comfort. An item made without seams. Seams can be a source of discomfort, so a seamless item will tend to be more comfortable versus a similar item made with seams.

    Seamless Bra

    A seamless bra uses a single piece of fabric for the cups, so there's no stitching on the cups, giving a bra-less look.

    Seconds, Factory Seconds

    All clothing and hosiery, which is not of first quality and does not qualify as "irregulars”. These clothing and hosiery items can contain minor imperfections most, of which are not noticeable but can be seen on close examination.  Seconds are usually sold at discounted prices.  Examine "seconds" closely and always, always try it on before you buy it.

    Sequins

    Small shiny metallic discs used to reflect light and add interest to a garment.

    Shape Enhancer

    A shape wear or foundation garment that controls the stomach plus shapes the waist and sides. It usually has hook and eyes at the waist, and boning to keep the waist from rolling. A shape enhancer can also be called a “waist nipper”.

    Shaper

    A style of lingerie created to provide support, shape and control.

    Shape wear

    Modern term for fitted women's underwear, especially a girdle.  Shape wear is designed to hold a part of the body in pleasing or desired shape.

    Shawl

    A wide scarf worn about the shoulders.

    Shawl Collar

    The collar of a garment which is made to look like a wide scarf.

    Sheer

    Thin, fine and transparent fabric.

    Sheerness

     

    This is determined by a combination of gauge and denier, not by just gauge. A 51 or finer gauge stocking is sheer only if it is knitted with a thin or low denier yarn.

    Sheer-To-The-Waist

    A phrase used to describe pantyhose without visible panty line or reinforcement in the panty portion. It is an all-sheer garment from waist to toe.

    Shelf Bra

    Low-cut bra designed to enhance the cleavage. A demi cup (or demi) style bra means a contoured bra with under wire design that has a large portion of the upper half of the cup removed to expose the upper part of the breasts. The shoulder straps are also set farther apart or wide –set to expose as much of the chest and upper breasts without exposing the nipple. Such bras are often referred to as being décolleté‚ and are usually worn with low cut clothing or if the bodice is cut low, wide or square. Many find this style bra very attractive.  Demi Bras are also called Balconette or a shelf bra.  Shelf bras do generally expose all or part of the nipple.

    Shelf Cups

    Cups that only provide support and coverage underneath the breasts, usually exposing the nipples.

    Shimmer

    Reflective finish on fabric, usually satin, that creates a soft shine.

    Shirred

    Material which is gathered to make decorative folds

    Shirring

    Material is gathered into lines, for decorative effect.  “Gathered” if often used as different word meaning the same thing.

    Shorts

    Very short pants ranging from micro shorts which resemble bikini panties, to hot pants, to Bermuda shorts which hit about mid thigh. 

    Silicone Cups

    A type of bra cup filled with silicone rather than other fabrics, creating a smooth natural look.

    Silk

    Fine lustrous fiber made from the cocoons of silkworms and used to make thread and fabric. Silk fabric is sometimes used for men and women's underwear and other clothing. A natural fiber produced by silkworms that is revered for it’s luxuriously soft feel.

    Silk Knit

    Silk fabric designed with a stretchable blend to fit and stretch with the body. Silk fabric that stretches and clings to the body.

    Skirtini

    A mini skirt with attached garters.  A Skirtini is also known as a Garter Skirt and may or may not have an attached panty.

    Sleep Wear, Sleepwear

    Garments designed to worn for sleep, such as boxer shorts, slips, camisoles, pajamas, etc.

    Sleep Teddy

    A loose fitting teddy usually worn as sexy sleepwear

    Slide Top

    Often called a triangle slide top because the cups are shaped like triangles that slide along the band for adjustability.  A triangle slide top is frequently used for bikini swimwear.

    Slinky Knit

    A soft, elastic knit fabric that conforms to the shape of the body.

    Slip

    A woman's undergarment of dress length with shoulder straps.

    Slit

    A narrow cut in the fabric usually made for ease of movements or sex appeal.

    Snap Crotch

    Crotch snaps and unsnaps for convenience.  This term may also apply to clothing or lingerie with a hook and eye or Velcro closure at the crotch.

    Sock

    A short stocking reaching a point between the ankle and the knee.

    Soft-Cup Bra, Soft Cup Bra

    A soft cup bra uses elastic under the cups for support, as opposed to wire.

    Softel

    Synthetic performance fabric with advanced absorption and wicking power.

    Spandex

    Synthetic stretch fabric or fiber made from polyurethane.  Generic term for elastic thread. It takes just a small percentage of spandex to make a fabric stretch, so a typical cloth might be made of 95% polyester and 5% spandex.

    Spandex/Lycra

    Fabric created from elastic thread that helps a garment to stretch. Lycra is a well-known brand of spandex.

    Sports Bra

    A sports bra is specially designed to eliminate bounce (as much as possible), for use in any activity that involves a lot of movement. The cotton-lined cups are high at the front and sides for support, and they have a comfort under band with non-curl elastic to stop it from riding up. They may also have a non-slip Velcro fastening strap.  Some styles do use hook and eye closures.

    Sports Sock

    Sock with extra padding which changes according to where the protective padding is placed - ball, toes, instep, heel, arch, shin - how thick the padding is and what materials they are made of.

    Stay-up, Stay Up, Stay Up Stockings

    Stockings with rubber grips inside the tops that help to prevent them from slipping down the legs. These stockings are usually worn without a garter belt, but they can usually be worn with a garter belt, if desired. Stockings with a rubber grip inside the top that helps to prevent them from slipping down the leg.

    Stockings

    Hosiery providing coverage from over the knee or mid-thigh to the toes. Almost all modern stockings stretch and can be worn without a garter belt, but because the stockings may still slip down the leg, a garter belt will keep your stockings up.

    Strapless

    A garment without bands of material or shoulder straps over the shoulders.

    Strapless Bra

    A strapless bra has no shoulder straps, and is especially designed for wear with evening gowns and other sleeveless wear.

    Stretch

    Any clothing or lingerie item that is made with Lycra fabric, which lends a smooth, sleek look as well as freedom in movement, comfort and fit.

    Stretch Lace

    Lace designed with stretch ability to create form fit Lace that stretches (providing a better fit and more comfort).  Often used to make stockings or pantyhose.

    Stretch Straps

    Stretch straps use low-stretch elastic to give more control and comfort, while reducing bounce.

    String Bikini

    A swimsuit that has a bikini style panty with high cut leg line, thin string sides and full back.

    String Bikini (swimwear)

    A swimsuit that has a bikini style panty with high cut leg line, thin string sides and full back.  However, these may also include bikinis with a thong style panty with high cut legs and thin, string sides.

    Studs

    A sharp, cone-shaped metal fastener that goes through the fabric and is flattened out to form a flat head in back.

    Studded

    Any lingerie or clothing that uses studs as decoration.

    Support Panel

    A support panel is another name for an inner sling. An inner sling can be a curved strip of fabric that follows the natural curve of the bra similar to an under wire, except soft. This fabric is rigid and sewn inside the cup to provide additional support. An inner sling can also go around the entire breast circumference, or just be panels on the sides of the breast.  Support panels are also used in maternity clothing and foundation lingerie.

    Surplice

    A long flowing robe or gown with wide cut sleeves (think choir gown style).

    Suspender Style

    Stockings, pantyhose or bodystocking where an attached waistband holds up the legs, sometimes styled to look like a garter belt. The front and back are usually open, so some may prefer to wear a g-string or thong under or on top (more convenient) of the hosiery.

    Suspender Thong

    This can either refer to an article of lingerie or dancewear that is similar in style to a teddy or a style of thong bikini bottoms that have extra long sides which come up and around the shoulder like suspenders.

    Sweetheart, Sweetheart Neckline

    As this phrase refers to clothing and lingerie, a curving neckline of the bodice, cut to look like a heart.  This style neckline may have straight or scalloped edges. (Think of the neckline on Snow White’s dress)

     

     

    T

     

    Tactel

    Registered brand of synthetic performance fabric known for its springy, lightweight construction and wicking power.

    Taffeta

    A stiff lustrous silk or silk-type fabric with a slight rib.

    Tailored

    Clothing or lingerie designed to have the appearance of being custom fit and cut. Tailored clothing or lingerie is usually fitted to the body.

    Tanga

    A lingerie pant style that has thin straps across the hips. Similar to a boy short but slightly higher in the waist and lower in the leg. A Tanga is between a bikini and a thong with a more narrow back coverage than a traditional panty, but not as narrow as a thong. A Tanga is more common in Europe than in the US. They are also a comfortable transition from a bikini before trying a thong.  This style is occasionally seen in bikini swimwear bottoms.

    Tank Top

    Sleeveless shirt for men or women.

    Tap Pants

    Usually associated with lingerie, tap pants are shorts with a slightly gathered, elasticized waistband and very short, loose-fitting legs.

    Tapestry

    Rich looking fabric similar in appearance to the heavy, hand-woven designs used in making curtains and upholstery.  This fabric often has a floral design woven into the fabric.

    Teddie, Teddy

    Lingerie item that combines a camisole with a panty. A teddy can be fitted to the body or loose and is worn either under clothing or as sleepwear. A combination of camisole and panty with high cut legs and usually a thong in back, however, some risqué styles may use a G String back.

    Teddiette 

    A teddy with attached garters to keep stockings from falling down. Teddiettes may have either a thong or G String back.

    Thermal Underwear

    Long sleeve pullover or long underwear made in thick cotton or cotton blend with a waffled texture designed to retain heat for winter wear.  Thermal underwear is also referred to as “long johns”.

    Thigh High Stockings, Thigh Highs

    Stockings that just reach the mid-thigh and are held up by elastomer (stay up) bands around the top.

    Thigh Shaper

    Shape wear piece designed to hold a woman's thighs in a certain shape.  This foundation garment is often used to help hide perceived figure flaws.

    Thirds

    Clothing and hosiery that contains major imperfections such as runs, snags, breaks and obvious mends.  These are generally not offered for sale to the public.

    Thong

    An underwear style for both men and women with a thin fabric back that rests between the buttocks. A panty with a narrow strip of fabric in the back that begins as a "v" shape at the back waistband and then tapers to a thin strip by the time it reaches the crotch. This style panty is great if you don’t want panty lines.  This also a frequently seen style for bikini swimwear bottoms.

    Thong Back

    Term defining the back of a panty meaning the thin strip of material resting between the buttocks and exposing most or all of this area.  This term may be used to describe panties, swimwear, dancewear and lingerie.

    Thong Boy, Thongboy

    Features the comfort of a brief with the benefits of a thong. A Thongboy provides coverage over the top back cheeks, but quickly reduces to a thong style when going through the crotch. Picture the thong boy as a boy short with a thong back panel.

    Thong Panty

    A panty with a thin fabric back that rests between the buttocks, exposing the area.

    Tie Back

    A type of closure involving ties or laces that ties or fastens in the back.

    Tie Belt

    The sash or fabric used to tie a robe or Kimono that holds it closed.

    Tie Front

    A type of closure involving ties or laces that fastens in the front.

    Tie Side, Tie Sides

    Garment ties or unties at the side or sides.

    Tights

    A heavy, opaque one-piece garment from hip to toe worn with leotards for dance, exercise, etc. It is usually made with 40-denier yarn or higher and is sometimes made of yarn other than nylon.

    Triangle Bikini, Triangle Bra, Triangle Bra Top

    A triangle bra has triangle shaped cups, which offer the perfect amount of coverage/support for petite to average figures. Triangles bras may be padded or lined but generally do not have under wires. Most have thin straps and the bottom of the bra is often gathered along a drawstring that may tie in the back like a bikini swimsuit top.

    Tricot

    Plain, close warp-knitted nylon fabric.  This fabric is usually very soft, clingy and stretchy.

    T-Shirt, T Shirt

    A knitted undershirt with short sleeves, usually a crew neck, although sometimes produced with a V-neck.

    T-Shirt Bra, T Shirt Bra

    Type of seamless, contour cup bra designed to appear invisible under form fitting clothing. T-shirt Bras are absent of lace or ornamentation and often have a front closure.

    Tube Top

    A strapless, body-hugging top made from a rectangular piece of fabric, usually Lycra, Spandex or similar stretchy knit fabric.

    Tulle

    Stiffened nylon mesh.  This fabric is sometimes used for making petticoats.

    Tummy Shaper

    Sometimes called a "tummy tamer", this shape wear garment is designed to hold in or flatten a woman's stomach.

     

     

    U

     

    Undergarment

    A garment designed to be worn under another piece of clothing.  This is also referred to as lingerie or underwear.

    Under Liner, Underliner

    An underliner is any undergarment that begins at the waist and extends down past the mid-calf. An underliner can be loose fitting and worn as a slip for unlined pants, or it can be form-fitting to slim and smooth the legs.

    Underwear

    Clothing or an article of clothing worn next to the skin and under other clothing. Examples of underwear include: briefs, boxers, panties, bras etc.

    Under Wire, Underwire

    A strip of flatted steel wire (or other man-made material) sewn into the underside of each cup of a bra, used for support and shape.

    Under Wire Bra, Underwire Bra

    An under wire bra has a wire that runs under the cups for extra support.

    Unfinished Edges, Unfinished Hem

    In a piece of clothing, the edges of the fabric are "unfinished" or not hemmed.  This is usually done with lightweight slinky knits which need to drape softly or give a lightweight, floaty look.  Finishing the edge of the slinky knit would add weight and bulk, completely changing or ruining the intended look. 

    Unmentionable, Unmentionables

    This means lingerie or underwear.  This phrase became popular in the 19th century when it was considered improper to mention the name of an undergarment by its actual name in public.

    Utility Weight,
    Service Weight

    A hosiery product that will give long life and designed for people in a physical and active working situation were high stress is placed on the hosiery. Usually made with greater than 30 Denier nylons thread.

     

     

    V

     

    Vamp

    The upper part of a shoe or boot covering especially the top of the foot and sometimes also extending forward over the toe or backward to the back seam of the upper part of the shoe.

    Veil

    Often associated with bridal wear, a veil is a length of cloth worn by women over the head, shoulders, and often the face, worn for decoration or to protect the head and face.

    Velcro

    Closure consisting of a piece of fabric of small hooks that sticks to a corresponding fabric of small loops.

    Velcro Side, Velcro Sides

    Garment attaches at the sides using Velcro allowing quick removal.

    Velour

    A closely napped fabric resembling velvet, used chiefly for clothing and upholstery.

    Velvet

    Velvet is a fabric made of silk, cotton, nylon, or other material, that has a thick, close, soft pile and a plain underside.

    Venice Lace

    Firm, heavy lace with an open background, usually in floral leaf patterns.

    Vent

    Predetermined slit, especially on the legs of boxer shorts, that provides more freedom of movement.

    Vest

    A sleeveless, waist length jacket usually meant to be worn over a shirt or blouse.

    Vinyl

    A man-made plastic material that has a wet look and is often used in fetish wear.  Many manufacturers are now bonding the vinyl with a thin layer of knit fabric and some are even producing vinyl with a small amount of stretch.

    Viscose

    A type of rayon with a soft and silky feel made from cellulose, often from cotton plants.

    V-Neck

    Neckline on a t-shirt that dips into a "V" in the front.

     

     

    W

     

    Waist Cincher 

    Originally, a form fitting garment worn around the waist to help control and smooth your mid-section which often included garter straps to hold up stockings.  However, waist cinchers have become a trendy clothing fashion and come in many styles, colors and fabrics.

    Waistnipper, Waist Nipper, Waist Shaper 

    Originally, waist nippers offer firm control of the waist and stomach. Waist nippers, sometimes called waist cinchers, are boned garments that start under the bust and goes down to the waist or over the hips. It often laces up the back and the front may lace up, zip, buckle, or have a hook and eye closure and it worn under, over, or as clothing. As a foundation garment or shape wear, it is perfect for creating an hourglass figure under tight fitting clothing.

    Walking Sheer,
    Business Sheer,
    Day sheer

    All these terms are for stockings knit out of nylon greater than 15 Denier for a more durable wear while maintaining a near ultra sheer appearance. Normally 30-denier nylon thread is used in these stockings.

    Welt

    The top portion of the stocking, were the garter is to be attached. This area is made with a heavier gauge of nylon, doubled over and finished closed.

    Wet Look

    Term used to describe a fabric, usually Lycra or a Lycra blend with a smooth, extremely shiny surface.

    Wicking

    A fabric's ability to pull moisture away from the skin, allowing it to evaporate in order to keep the person cool and dry.

    Wide Away, Wide-Away

    A bra style with widely spaced shoulder straps to accommodate a boat neck or wide squared neckline.

    Wings

    Side panels of a bra typically found in the larger or plus size cups that provide support in the bust area and under the arms.

    Wool

    Fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. Wool also refers to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna.

    Woven Fabric

    Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under holds woven fabrics together.

    Wrap Around Elastic Band

    In a bra with a wrap-around elastic band, the frame has an elastic band running completely around the bra, keeping it in place. It's commonly used in sports bras.

    Wristlet

    A decorative, elastic band worn around the wrists.

     

     

    Z

     

    Zip or Zipper

    A type of closure consisting of two rows of interlocking metal or plastic teeth with an attached pull-tab to open and close the fastener.

    Zip Back, Zipper Back

    Garment with zip closure that opens and closes in the back.

    Zip Front, Zipper Front

    Garment with zip closure that opens and closes in the front.

    Zip Side, Zipper Side

    Garment with zip closure that opens and closes in the side. 

     

  • Bra Sizing and Resolving Bra Fitting Problems

    Approximately 75% of women are wearing the wrong size bra. While this figure may seam outstanding, it becomes plausible when you consider the complexity of each women's shape and the variations in bra shape from style to style and manufacturer to manufacturer. Furthermore, provided the continuing change in a woman's shape due to water retention, dieting, exercise and the natural aging process, a bra that once fit properly will likely continue being worn beyond its proper fit.

    A properly fitted bra is comfortable to wear and, ultimately, will feel as if you are not wearing a bra. A woman should visit her favorite lingerie store at least twice a year and, ideally, each quarter to ensure her bra fits properly.

    While the guidelines below will help a woman achieve a general idea of her bra size, the actual bra size purchased may vary because of the lack of true standardization among bra manufacturers. For this reason, a woman should always be willing to focus more on fit and comfort than her historical or projected bra size based upon measurements with a tape measure.


    Follow these four steps to achieve your bra size:


    1) Measurement 1. Measure under your bust line. Put on your best-fitting, unpadded, under wire bra. Measure underneath the bust line and make sure to measure tightly. Be sure the tape measure is straight across your back.


    The general rule of thumb for all measuring is: less than 1/2", round DOWN, more than a 1/2", round UP. So if your measurement is 32 1/4, call it 32.


    2) Calculate your band size. If measurement 1 is UNDER 33 inches, add 5 inches. If this number is odd, round up to the next EVEN number. If measurement 1 is OVER 33 inches, add 3 inches. If this number is odd, round up to the next EVEN number. Write this EVEN number down.
     

    3) Measurement 2. Measure over the largest point of your bust line. Make sure the tape measure is straight.


    4) Calculate you cup size. First subtract measurement number 1 from measurement number 2. Then consult the following chart to find your cup size.
     

    If measurement 2 is: Your cup size is:

    0" larger than measurement 1 AA
    1" larger than measurement 1 A
    2" larger than measurement 1 B
    3" larger than measurement 1 C
    4" larger than measurement 1 D
    5" larger than measurement 1 DD/E
    6" larger than measurement 1 F


    Please see below for a list of common bra fitting problems and their solutions.


    Problem: - The band at the back of the bra rides up.
    Explanation: - The band of the bra is too big
    Solution: - You need a bra with a smaller back size.


    Problem: - Under wire digging in under the armpit.
    Explanation: - Your cup is too small, the under wire should encase the breast not dig into it.
    Solution: - You need a bra with a bigger cup size.


    Problem: - Indents in the shoulder where the straps have dug in.
    Explanation: - Your bra is too big in the back and not big enough in the cup; this is causing you to pull the straps up too tight for support.
    Solution: - You need a bra, which is smaller in the back & bigger in the cup.


    Problem: - Breasts are falling out of the bottom of under wire.
    Explanation: - The band of your bra is too big and the Cup is too small.
    Solution: - You need a bra which is smaller in the back and bigger in the cup.


    Problem: - Bumpy silhouette under clothes
    Explanation: - Cup encasing breast is too small and so causes breast to overspill.
    Solution: - You need to increase your cup size, until you have a smooth silhouette.

  • Rhinestones and Rhinestone Jewelry

    The name rhinestone originated from pieces of crystal or glass found in Austria's Rhine River. Rhinestones, however, have been around for centuries and were originally cut and finished by hand.

    In the 1700’s, a French jeweler developed a technique for applying lead to the back of glass. This process greatly enhanced the brilliance and sparkle of the glass. In the 1800’s, Swarovski created a glass cutting machine which cut faceted glass that had dazzle and brilliance far superior to hand cut crystal. This became known as "Swarovski Rhinestones". Swarovski's invention allowed for a speedy mass production while still producing a magnificent finished stone. Today this process is still being used world wide by companies other than Swarovski. While there may be some quality differences, many companies have successfully mimicked the Swarovski technique.

     

    All rhinestones are carefully and meticulously cut glass or crystal with a foiled backing with lead content which enhances the sparkle and brilliance. However, not all rhinestones are Swarovski nor are they all Austrian Crystal. However, as all rhinestones are cut glass or crystal with a foiled back, this sometimes becomes confusing. Rhinestones may also be Czech, Korean, Acrylic or Plastic.

     

    Swarovski Rhinestones:

    The top of the line rhinestones are Swarovski Rhinestones. This distinction in name can only apply to rhinestones that are made specifically by the Swarovski Company.  If something is labeled as “Genuine Swarovski” it must come from the Swarovski Company. Swarovski rhinestones are made of lead crystal with an 8 facet cut although some of the newer stones have a 14 facet cut

     

    Czech Rhinestones:

    Czech Machine Cut

    This is a very fine lead crystal rhinestone, has 8 facets with a relatively large table. At distances, these stones flash brighter than do Swarovski, and because of great presence and cost, are costumer's favorites. The crystal is not quite as bright due to slightly lower lead content; however, it is difficult to tell the difference at distances greater than 5 feet. In fact, the Czech stone will often outshine its Swarovski counterpart at distance. Czech rhinestones are known to have a quality quite comparable to Swarovski and are often preferred because they are less expensive without a noticeable quality difference.

     

    Czech Extra Grade

    Made by Preciosa, this stone is double cut (top and bottom only) and facets are molded. The facets are not as sharp as the Machine cut, and there is considerable variance in quality of this stone. This is NOT lead crystal, but is glass. Therefore, this stone does not have the brilliance that either Swarovski or Czech Machine cut exhibit.

     

    Acrylic or Plastic Rhinestones

    Acrylic rhinestones are not stones at all but are merely pieces of plastic shaped to look like rhinestones. Acrylic or plastic rhinestones do not sparkle like real rhinestones because acrylic does not transmit light as doe's glass or lead crystal. But, their cost is attractive for children's wear and single-use costumes. Not all acrylic rhinestones are created equally. Acrylic rhinestones are made by molding. Occasionally, molding tabs are present that have to be broken off the rhinestone before using...not many, but a few do have these tabs. Also, the nature of plastic causes these "stones" to fall out of settings very easily. They may be useful in costumes, but should never be considered as jewelry. There is one advantage of acrylics over crystal rhinestones...the mirror backing is an integral part of the stone, whereas glass and crystal rhinestones have the mirror applied as a coating and the coating can sometimes peel away from the glass.

     

    Korean Rhinestones

    Korean rhinestones are not up to the same grade as anything produced in Europe at this time. These stones are single cut (back must be cut) and are cast stones with poor light reflection qualities. These stones are used in low-end heat transfer work by some companies.

     

    Cubic Zirconia

    Cubic Zirconia Gemstones (CZ's) are a cubic form of zirconium oxide developed in a lab as a substitute for diamonds. They have many of the characteristics of diamonds. These gems are hand cut and often set in genuine gold, silver, or platinum. CZ's are meant to be a substitute for diamonds, and are priced accordingly.

     

    Rhinestone Cuts and Sizes

    Rhinestones come in a multitude of different shapes, sizes and colors. Before buying rhinestones, make sure you educate yourself on what your application needs are for your design. The cut of the rhinestone greatly influences its brilliance! Purchase the rhinestone with cut in mind.

    ·    Rhinestones with more facets will glimmer more than those cut with fewer facets.

    ·    Rhinestones cut with fewer facets will flash more than those cut with a higher number of facets.

     

    According to Rhinestone Guy, the perfect compromise is 8 facets around the table (the table is the flat top of the rhinestone). When more facets are added to the rhinestone, the reflected light is broken into more pieces; therefore each piece of reflected light is smaller. Understand that up close, the more facets a rhinestone has, the better it will look to your eye, but the real test of a rhinestone is at a distance of intended viewing. Costumers design outfits that are showing at distances of greater than 4 feet. Here, in all cases, the 8 facet rhinestone will be superior in effect to rhinestones of higher cut facets.

    Rhinestones are generally sized as follows:

     

    SS: "Stone Size" This designation is used for flat back and larger pointed back stones. Stone Sizes are usually:

    8SS = 2.3 mm, 10 SS = 2.8 mm, 12 SS = 3.1 mm, 16 SS = 3.9 mm, 20 SS = 4.7 mm, 30 SS = 6.4 mm, 34 SS = 7.1 mm, 40 SS = 8.9 mm, 42 SS = 9.1 mm, 49 SS = 11.1 mm

    PP: "Pearl Plate" This designation is used for pointed back stones up to about pp35. Roughly, 1/2 pp = SS, but not exactly. The name comes from pearl sizing techniques where a plate has holes of a certain size drilled in it so pearls of that size or smaller will fall through.

     

    Rhinestone Colors

    Rhinestones come in a rainbow of colors. The colors offered increase every year but can be broken down into basic categories:

     

    Crystal: This is the traditional diamond look-a-like. These rhinestones are clear and should have no color. This is the most commonly seen rhinestone.

     

    Transparent Colors: These are semi-precious gem-like colors. These rhinestone colors are often named after the gem they imitate such as: Emerald (green), Peridot (lime or apple green), Sapphire (royal blue), Amethyst (purple), etc. If the name has 'Light' before it, it is a paler version of the color.

     

    Colors AB: AB rhinestones are produced by adding an Aurora Borealis coating to the stone. The coating will cause a prismatic effect in light refraction, casting all colors of the rainbow, with the base color showing through.  Crystal AB results when a 'Crystal' color has an AB coating applied. This stone will cast mild colors in all ranges. Swarovski AB coatings reflect in the red, blue, green, and gold areas, whereas Czech reflects more Gold/Yellow than do the Swarovski.

     

    Effect Colors: These are rhinestones in special colors which are produced by polarization of the glass; usually producing two or more different colors, depending upon how light is hitting the stone. Both Czech and Swarovski produce these stones, but Swarovski has a broader color spectrum of choice.

     

    If you are looking for loose rhinestones for your own personal rhinestone project, we recommend Rhinestone Guy. If you are looking for quality rhinestone accessories such as rhinestone belts, rhinestone earrings, rhinestone necklaces and chokers, rhinestone skirts, rhinestone thongs, rhinestone halter tops, rhinestone bra tops, and rhinestone fetish wear accessories, visit www.sexylingerienights.com  for all of your fine rhinestone jewelry and rhinestone accessory needs.

  • Bridal Wedding Lingerie Considerations

    Bridal lingerie is as important on a woman's wedding day as her bridal gown. Your wedding day is not the time to wear everyday underwear. Bridal lingerie is specially designed to provide additional support and shaping underneath your gown. You're going to look beautiful; you may as well feel beautiful too.

     

    Bridal lingerie, particularly bridal bustiers and bridal corsets, are available in a variety of styles, colors and sizes. Bridal lingerie is intended to provide additional support and shape underneath your bridal gown and should flatter the style of dress you will wear.

     

    Once you have decided upon your dress, you are ready to begin bridal lingerie shopping. The best place to start is a reputable lingerie shop with staff experienced in fitting bridal lingerie.  One store that we recommend because of its reputation for service and bridal lingerie selection is Sexy Lingerie Nights Lingerie.  See our Bridal Lingerie Here.

     

    When shopping for bridal lingerie, it is best to bring your bridal gown to ensure the bridal lingerie enhances the gown, is comfortable and achieves the look you desire. While photos of the bridal gown may provide an idea of the style and look, a fitting of the bridal lingerie with the gown is recommended to ensure the garments are complimentary. The bridal corset, for example, should not appear above the lip of a low back gown.

    If your dress is strapless or an off-the-shoulder style, you might prefer a bustier rather than just a strapless bra. It completely surrounds your torso and at the same time pushes the breasts upward. This style works especially well if you have a full figure or a low cut back. If your dress is halter-style or backless, an adhesive bra like NuBra (available at Sexy Lingerie Nights Lingerie) is recommended for women up to a C cup size.

    What about panties and hosiery? It's best to choose a panty that is sleek and fits close to the body, and most of all is made of a comfortable fabric for you. If you have a close fitting "sheath" style gown, it will be important to make sure no panty lines are visible.

     

    Often brides find that a one piece body shaper is the best answer-that assures no panty lines and provides a smooth look. Body shapers can also be very helpful for the bride concerned with her torso.

     

    For hosiery it is best to choose a size that fits you very well without bagging or slipping and one that will help support the stress on your legs from being on your feet and in heels for much of the day and evening. Choose good quality hosiery as it will be less prone to snag or tear.

  • Buying Bridal Lingerie

    When you are planning a wedding, make sure you give yourself enough time to purchase your bridal lingerie, especially if you're doing lingerie shopping online. Sometimes the items online go out of stock, or a product line becomes discontinued. Wedding lingerie  should  be  purchased early enough that you  can  try  it on and  return it  if  there are any sizing  problems.

     

    Bridal lingerie is usually white or ivory in color. Corsets are a common item to wear beneath a wedding dress. The corset gives a woman the often sought after hour glass figure.

     

    Often wedding lingerie will include the lingerie for the honeymoon - and tradition suggests that you choose a baby doll or bustier. Again, white or ivory is the typical color of choice.

     

    Remember, this is your bridal lingerie and not lingerie you are likely to wear daily, so get something really sexy! There is nothing like a bride in sexy bridal lingerie on her honeymoon.

    Don't forget the garter belts! You'll need those to complete your wedding lingerie outfit! I mean let's face it, he has to get that garter off of you and it should be a beauty.

  • Finding the Perfect Fitting Bra

    The perfect fitting bra is the Holy Grail of women’s lingerie. For many women, the perfect fitting bra might as well be a myth, a fairy tale, something completely unobtainable.  But never fear we have come up with some simple guidelines to help you on your quest for the perfect fitting bra.

     

    Three step check for the perfect fitting bra:

     

    The strap around your body should be firm but comfortable. When you stand side-on at a mirror, the strap that runs around your body should be horizontal and should not ride up at the back at all. If the back of the bra rides up in the back, it is too big.

     

    The wires at the front should lie flat against your rib cage. This is also true for soft cup bras. The under wires should not dig in, rub or poke out at the front.

     

    Your breasts should be enclosed in the cups and you should have a smooth line where the fabric at the top of the cup ends and meets your bust. You shouldn't have any ridge or bulging over the top or sides of the cups, even if you are wearing a balconette style or lower cut shape. If your breast bulges out of the cup, the cup is too small.

     

    Trying-on tips

    When you are trying a bra on, it's best to start off by fastening it on its loosest hook. This way you will be able to tighten the bra up if it starts to give in the back a bit when you've worn it a few times. Also, remember to adjust the shoulder straps to ensure that they are not too loose. When you've put on a bra, you may need to adjust your breasts to make sure that they are in the cups properly. It's a good idea to try a T-shirt or top over the bra that you are trying so that you can see the shape that style gives you underneath your clothes.

     

    Bra Fitting Troubleshooter

     

    My breasts are bulging out of the top or sides of the cup and my bust looks lumpy under clothes.

     

    This is a sure sign that the cup size you are wearing is too small as your breasts should be totally encased in the cups. Try at least one cup size bigger.

     

    My bra rides up my back or moves around as I move.

    Apart from trying to squeeze ourselves into cup sizes that are too small, the most common mistake that we make is to wear back sizes that are too big. The strap around your body should fit snugly and it will only move around if it is too big. If this is happening, you need to try a smaller back size. BUT REMEMBER a smaller back size will also be smaller in the cup (i.e. a 34B is smaller in the back and cup than a 36B). For example, if you found a 36B fit you well in the cup but was too big around the back, you would need to try a 34C.

     

    The wires stick out at the front or dig in under my arms.

    When the wires stick out or dig in like this, it's often because the cup size is too small and your breasts are forcing the bra away from your body. Try a cup size bigger so that the wires lie flat against your body and fully encase your breasts.

     

    The straps dig into my shoulders and give me red marks.

    The main support provided by a bra should come from the strap around your back and not the shoulder straps. If your shoulder straps are digging in, you are probably wearing too big a back size so you need to drop a back size. Alternatively, you may simply need to loosen the shoulder straps.

     

    The cups are wrinkly, particularly at top and sides.

    This is usually a sign that the cup size is too big so you may want to try one cup size smaller. However, if the wrinkling is only at the tip of the cup, this could be an indication that the cup size is too small because your breasts cannot fit into the cups properly - in this instance, try one cup size bigger. Try one cup up and then one cup down to determine which cup size corrects the problem.

  • Caring for your Spandex and Lycra Clothing

    What is Lycra?

    Originally developed as a replacement for rubber, LYCRA®, by DuPont, is remarkable for its ability to stretch many times its original length - and then snap back to its starting size with no loss to its spring.  A touch of Lycra adds comfort and freedom of movement and improving the fit, shape retention, drape and wrinkle resistance of the apparel.

     

    There is really no such thing as a commercially available fabric made entirely of Lycra; it's never used alone, but is always combined with another fiber (or fibers), both natural and man-made. As little as 2 percent Lycra is enough to improve a woven fabric's movement, drape, and it's knack for holding its shape.  Whatever the blend, fabrics enhanced with Lycra keep the look and feel of the majority fiber.

     

    Laundering Lycra

    Machine washing and tumble drying are the preferred manner of laundering.

     

    If the other fibers in the garment are machine washable and dryable, this should be the recommended method for cleaning. The heat generated by machine drying will help recover any lost stretch that occurred during the wearing of a garment. Thorough washing, rinsing and drying in machines brings out the best in Lycra.

     

    Spandex/Lycra is a common fabric blend for most sexy clothes and club wear.

     

    General Lycra/Spandex Fiber Care Tips

    Hand or machine-wash in lukewarm water on gentle cycle

    Do not use chlorine bleach on any fabric containing spandex

    Rise thoroughly

     

    Drip dry. If machine dried, use low temperature

    Ironing, if required, should be done rapidly. Do not leave the iron too long in one position. Use low temperatures setting. (For specific instructions, refer to garment's sewn-in care label)

     

    Dry Cleaning Lycra

    Dry cleaning Lycra is no problem. Although some solvents may temporarily swell the fiber, proper rinsing provided by a professional dry cleaner recovers all stretch and recovery properties of the garment. Lycra does retain the odor of dry cleaning solutions a little longer than most fibers, but it will quickly disappear with a little airing.

     

    No Chlorine Bleach

    To improve the life and look of garments with Lycra, the only thing that should be avoided is chlorine bleach. Aside from that, you need only provide the care determined by the other fabrics. Exposure to chlorine can lead to discoloration, stretch and eventual breakage of the Lycra fibers.

     

    All-fabric bleach can be used for the laundering of garments with Lycra. It is particularly useful in preventing any graying of the fabric caused by absorption of soils and detergents.

     

    Lycra Care: (from DuPont)

    Since LYCRA® is usually the minority component in a given fabric; let the other fibers guide your care instructions. If other fibers or the trim or binding of a garment require hand washing, dry cleaning, or low-temperature washing and drying, their needs will determine the care instructions. Lycra will easily withstand repeated cleanings of all these types. When in doubt, wash or dry clean according to the primary fiber in the blend.

  • Garter Belts

    Garter belts were originally created in the 1920’s. Made of silk, lace and other materials, garter belts are worn around the waist or hips and have straps that clip or snap to the top of stockings to prevent them from falling. During this time, panty hose and “stay up” thigh high stockings were not created yet, so this was your only option if you wanted to wear this type of legging. Later it was realized that garter belts were a sexy lingerie item that could be worn during the most intimate moments.

    So what is a Garter Belt?

    Today, a garter belt is considered exotic lingerie. The belt is worn around the waist or hips directly against your skin. The silky or fishnet stockings are attached to the garter belt from four to eight dangling straps with clips. These straps are called garters. To complete this exotic lingerie look, a pair of high-heeled shoes could be worn for an added effect. This sexy lingerie look could also be complemented with a push-up bra, see through bra or other type of matching bra. The result is a sexy look that will definitely get your partner’s attention.

    Tips for Choosing and Buying a Garter Belt

    Depending on the style and material the garter belt is made of, sizes come in small, medium, large and plus size. Sometimes, sizing flexible and have a generic “one-size fits all” size. It is also possible to find garter belts with lace up backs or lace up sides. This allows for a great deal of size variance as the garter belt can be adjusted for an individual fit. Despite the name, a “One Size” garter belt will not fit everyone. For the full figured woman, it may be easier to find a size that fits you by going online to a lingerie website. Pricing can vary from $20-80 dollars depending on what it is made of, and how exotic the style is.

    Sexy garter belts can also vary in how much skin is covered. If you are body conscious, you may want to select one that covers a bit more of the hip. The look is still very attractive, since you are still showing a lot of exposed skin.

     

    Styles can also vary from frilly, cute and lacy to a erotic and racy. Depending on how extreme you are willing to go, it can be a real showstopper. When choosing, think about what turns your partner on. If that person is a bit conservative, they may prefer it if your lingerie covers you up a bit more. For others, they may think less is more, and a skimpy garter belt with stockings and high heels may be all that’s needed to get their pulse racing.

    How to Wear a Garter Belt

    First, put the garter belt around your waist and clip it into place. If you want to wear panties with it, you may want to slip them on next. However, once you put on the stockings, it will be difficult to remove them without taking them off. To prevent a distraction during spontaneity, you may want to find a skimpy pair you can slip over the belt (after you clip on the stockings) that blends well with it, so it doesn’t look tacky. Or just don’t wear any at all. To finish the look, you may want to slip on a pair of sexy high-heeled shoes and a bra.

    How to Spice Things Up

    Lingerie can add spice to any intimate relationship. Garter belts and stockings may remind your partner of exotic films. Adult films may not be your cup of tea, but they can give you ideas about sexy lingerie and may give you some other ideas!. If it scares you, there are less graphic films you can see. These are considered soft core or “soft-porn”, are more romantic in nature and do not show extreme close-ups of intimate parts of the body. You may also consider adult magazines and lingerie catalogs for ideas.

     

    Here’s an idea you can do with your garter belt attire. To surprise your partner, wear an attractive dress or skirt with blouse over your intimate ensemble. At the appropriate moment, let them know about your sexy attire underneath your clothes by telling them or showing them a hint of a garter strap on your leg.

     

    If you are looking for sexy lingerie, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

  • Man's Guide to Buying Lingerie

    Hi Guys!

    We understand shopping for lingerie for the lady in your life can be daunting, but don't panic; we are here to help you find that perfect gift.

     

    Forget the pounding the street and uncomfortable situations in those sexy stores. Sexy Lingerie Nights is a stress free shopping experience, and one which we think you may enjoy!!
    Nobody has to know who you are or what you're buying...your secret's safe with us!


    Before we go any further firstly here is what you should do:
    Sneak into her lingerie drawer and go straight to the source and look at a few labels. Sizes vary by brand so we suggest looking at several to most accurately size her up.


    What you’re looking for


    Bra -
    It has two measurements. A number (eg. 34) and a letter (eg B). The number is her chest size (circumference) and the letter is her cup size. You must find both!


    Chemise, body, camisole and teddy - These are usually sized in normal dress sizes (eg 10, 12, 14). Anything like a dress, jumper and some tops will reveal the right size for these garments. Panties, guarder belts, briefs and thongs - again sized in normal dress sizes (eg 10, 12, 14).
      
    Finding this information really shouldn't be that tough, though be sure to get sizes from clothes she still wears. Alternatively ask her best friend - girlfriends tend to know these kinds of things about each other.


    A little secret about how we ladies think.


    A woman's logic says if you buy:


    Too big = he thinks I am huge;


    Too small = he would like me to be thinner!


    Why buy sexy lingerie?


    You can really keep relationships new through lingerie. Like bringing home flowers, going out to dinner and making love on the kitchen floor, lingerie adds spice and keeps things hot. While any gift is thoughtful, nothing says sexy like lingerie. Every woman wants to feel desirable. The best news is lingerie is a gift that you will enjoy too.


    For other tips to consider when shopping for lingerie read our gift guide, this will help you find the perfect present for the special lady in your life.


    Lingerie comes down to personal taste. It all depends on the occasion, relationship and preference. Many men think skimpy lingerie is sexier, while others like the gorgeous feel of silk lingerie. For a first gift, a black garter belt set might be too wild, or it might be just the thing. We suggest thinking about what she usually wears and fantasizing about what might bring out another side. The beauty of sexy lingerie is its ability to transform.


    What's the Occasion?


    We know Valentine's Day, Christmas, Birthdays and anniversaries are perfect occasions to show your sensitivity and imagination through the gift of lingerie.


    But remember guys every day is a good day to turn up the heat in a relationship by giving lingerie to someone you care about.
    If you make her feel special who knows maybe she will return the favor!


    Presentation is everything


    Remember gentlemen that it is not only how she looks in lingerie that set the mood for you, but also just as important is your presentation of your self, how you look to her. It is a two way street remember and she could use a bit of eye candy also. So you might just want to check out a few things for your self that might get her imagination going also.

     
    If you're still unsure, why not get her some Sexy Lingerie Nights gift certificates, you know how much she enjoys spending your money!! Alternatively you could email us your particular situation, and we will have one of our consultants respond back to you with some suggestions that will make you look great.
    For advice email advice@sexylingerienights.com

  • General Fabric Care Guide

    ACETATE

     

    Most acetate garments should be dry-cleaned. Some knits are washable. If laundering is indicated, use the following guide:

     

    Hand wash in warm water with mild suds.

     

    Do not twist or wring out the garment.

     

    Do not soak colored items.

     

    Press while damp on the wrong side with a cool iron. If finishing the right side use a pressing cloth.

     

    Circular knits should be laid flat to dry.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

     

    Note: Acetate is adversely affected by acetone and other organic solvents, such as nail polish remover and perfumes containing such solvents.

     

    ACRYLIC

     

    Acrylic garments may be washed or dry cleaned.

     

    When machine washing, use warm water setting and add a fabric softener during the final rinse cycle.

     

    Machine dry at low temperature. Remove from dyer as soon as garments are dry.

     

    Wash delicate items by hand in warm water. Static electricity can be reduced by using s fabric softener in every third or fourth washing. Gently squeeze out water, smooth or shake out garment and let dry on a non-rust hanger. Sweaters and circular knits should be dried flat.

     

    If ironing is required, use moderately warm iron.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    COTTON

     

    Cotton can be easily laundered. It can withstand high temperatures (boiling water does not hurt the fiber).

     

    Any good detergent can be used to wash cotton.

     

    Chlorine bleach can be used safely on cotton whites. Use color safe bleach on dyed cottons.

     

    Since cotton fibers are fairly inelastic cotton fabrics may wrinkle easily. And, fabric may need frequent pressing.

     

    However, cotton fabric can be treated with a wrinkle resistant finish to create a more resilient fabric/garment. The label will tell you if this finish has been applied.

     

    A higher heat setting is needed in the dryer to dry cotton. Cotton will take much longer to dry than less absorbent fibers.

     

    Cotton can be ironed with a hot iron, and does not scorch easily

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

     

    LINEN

     

    Some linen is washable, while others are dry clean only. Be sure to check the label.

     

    Washable household linen, handkerchiefs, and linen apparel can be washed easily and become softer with use.

     

    White linens should be dried in the sun, if to help them to keep their whiteness.

     

    Generally speaking, dry cleaning is recommended for drapery linens, upholstery linens and decorative linens.

     

    Linen fabrics may need frequent pressing, unless treated for crease resistance. (Permanent press and soil release finishes are now being used effectively on 65% linen/35% polyester tablecloths, napkins and placemats.)

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    LYOCELL

     

    Lyocell garments may be either machine washable and dryable or dry cleanable. Read the label.

     

    Washable Lyocell has the strength and ease of care of other easy-care fabrics.

     

    Machine wash and dry at low temperature. Remove from dryer as soon as the garment is dry.

     

    If ironing is required, use a moderately warm iron.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    MICRO-FIBERS

     

    Acrylic, nylon and polyester micro-fibers are machine washable, machine dryable or dry cleanable

     

    Follow the instructions for washing fabrics consisting of these individual fibers.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

     

    NYLON

     

    Most items made from nylon can be machined washed and tumbled dried at low temperatures.

     

    Use warm water and add a fabric softener to the final rinse cycle.

     

    To minimize static electricity use a dyer sheet when machine drying.

     

    Remove articles from the dyer as soon as the tumbling cycle is completed.

     

    If ironing is required, use a warm iron.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    POLYESTER

     

    Most items made from polyester can be machine washed and dried.

     

    Use warm water and add a fabric softener to the final rinse cycle.

     

    Machine dry at low temperature setting and remove articles as soon as the tumbling cycle is complete.

     

    If ironing is needed, use a moderately warm iron.

     

    Most items made from polyester can be dry-cleaned.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

     

    POLYOLEFIN (OLEFIN)

     

    Most items can be washed or dry-cleaned.

     

    Most stains can be readily be removed by wiping, using lukewarm water and detergent.

     

    If fabric is machine washed, it should be line dried or tumbled dried with gentle or no heat.

     

    Do not iron.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

     

    RAYON

     

    Most rayon garments should be dry-cleaned, but some types of fabric and garment construction are such that they can be hand or machine washed. For washable items, use the following as a guide:

     

    Use mild lukewarm or cool suds. Gently squeeze suds through the fabric and rinse in lukewarm water. Do not wring or twist the article.

     

    Smooth or shake out the article and place on a non-rust hanger to dry. Rayon sweaters should be laid flat to dry.

     

    Press the article while damp on the wrong side with the iron at a moderate setting. If finishing on the right side is required, a press cloth should be used.

     

    Between wearing, rayon articles may be pressed with a cool iron.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    SILK

     

    Only pre-washed silk is washable. Read the label!

    Dry cleaning is generally preferred, since laundering detergent and dyes in other clothes may adversely affect silk fabric.

    For washable silk, follow the care instructions carefully.

    For items without linings and without embellishments attached, careful hand washing is permissible, with mild soap and lukewarm water.

     

    Chlorine bleach should never be used on silk.

     

    For long-time storage, silk should be sealed against light, air and insects.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    SPANDEX

     

    Hand or machine wash in lukewarm water.

     

    Do not use chlorine bleach on any fabric containing spandex. Use color safe bleach only.

     

    Rinse thoroughly.

     

    Drip dry. If machine drying, use low temperature setting.

    If ironing is required, iron rapidly and don't leave the iron in one place too long. Use a low temperature setting on the iron.

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.


    TRIACETATE

     

    Pleated garments are best hand laundered. Most other garments containing 100% triacetate can be machine washed.

    If ironing is needed, a high temperature setting may be used.

    Articles containing triacetate require little care due mainly to the fiber's resistance to high temperature.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

     

    WOOL

     

    Give wool garments a 24-hour rest between wearing. Hang on shaped or padded hangers, leaving lots of space. In general, wool fibers will shed wrinkles and return to their original shape

    Empty pockets, remove belts and hang with closures zipped and buttoned.

     

    Fold knits.

     

    Brush wool to remove surface soil. Use a damp sponge for knits and finer fabrics.

     

    Refresh wool garments quickly after wearing or unpacking by hanging them in a steamy bathroom. Moisture from the steam will remove wrinkles.

     

    If wool gets wet, dry the garment at room temperature away from heat. If there's a nap, brush with the nap.

     

    Remove spots and stains promptly.

     

    Keep moths away by storing wool with fresh cedar blocks.

    Dry clean once a season (or when stained), and especially before storing.

     

    Always steam when pressing wool. Use the wool setting. Avoid pressing wool totally dry. When possible, press on the reverse side of the fabric. When necessary to press on the right side, use a press cloth to avoid a shine. Lower and lift the iron, don't slide it back and forth. Prevent imprinting inside detail by placing a piece of brown paper or tissue paper under folds, seams or darts.

     

    For specific instructions, always refer to the garment's sewn-in care label.

  • Guide to Sexy Types of Lingerie

    To spice up your love life, wearing sexy lingerie can make things interesting. Your partner may have their own perceptions of what they find appealing, so you use your best judgment on what you choose for those intimate moments.

     

    Baby Doll

    This cute little number is usually a short gown with a built in, bra-like cups with a loose flowing skirt. The baby doll could be made of silk, nylon or a sheer material, depending on your preference.

     

    Garter Belt

    Not to be worn with pants!! The garter belt is worn directly on the skin around the waist. Sexy stockings or thigh-highs can be attached to the belt with the 4 to 8 straps that dangle from this exotic item. Complement this exotic, erotic lingerie look, by wearing a sexy matching bra (or not!!).

     

    Teddy

    A teddy is similar to bodysuits or one-piece swimsuits, but are often sold in lace of all colors. They're often very low-cut and sometimes have a thong back. The cups aren't usually lined but sometimes have under wire for support.

     

    Bustier

     

    A bustier is a sexy strapless bra that goes down to the waist with garter straps attached. It is made with a silk or other kind of shiny material. The look is exotic, and can be worn with or without panties. Depending on the style and fabric, bustiers also make a great sexy top that look fantastic with skirts, pants, shorts, or even jeans.

     

    Camisole

    This is a short top that has a length that goes to the waist. It can be worn like a slip underneath a wool sweater, beneath an open jacket, or just as it is with a pair of matching panties.

     

    Chemise

    One of the most common gowns, it is a straight cut that falls just above the knee. It has thin, spaghetti-like straps that are sometimes adjustable. Most chemise are made with a silky type of material

     

    Thongs and G-String Panties

    Thongs are panties that only cover the front and leave your bottom exposed, covered only by a thin strip of material. G-Strings are similar, except there is only a thin, stretchable string covering your backside.

     

    Corset

    Tight fitting and made of a stiff material, a corset cinches the waist and lifts up breasts. It is held in place by adjustable lacing in the back. Sometimes garter straps are attached to the bottom as an added feature.

     

    Peignoir

    A peignoir is a long gown with a length that reaches the ankles. These types of gowns usually come with a matching robe.

     

    Everyday Lingerie

    Bras

    Bras are a woman’s most common piece of lingerie. They give our breasts support and enhance our appearance.

     

    Types of bras are:

     

    Push up Bra

     

    Even the smallest breasts can be enhanced with this bra. They add breast size with added padding inside the cups (which can be removed), giving the appearance of more voluptuous cleavage.

     

    Demi-Cup or Shelf Bras

     

    This supportive bra covers only the bottom portion of the breasts and exposes the nipple. Great for low cut tops.

     

    Under Wire Bra

     

    Especially suitable for larger breasted women, it is a supportive bra with a slim wire sewn into the bottom portion of the cups for added support.

     

    Minimizer Bra

     

    Designed to make breasts look smaller. Suitable for large breasted women to help fit certain types of clothing fit better or create a more professional (less distracting) appearance.

     

    Panties

    Women’s everyday panties come in different cuts and styles. Depending on your preference and comfort level, there is a selection for everyone.

     

    Bikinis

     

    A type of panty sits on the hip, and fully covers the front and rear.

     

    Briefs (or boy short panties)

     

    Are designed to sit on the waist, and are similar to shorts.

     

    Flutter panties

     

    Sit on the waist and have elastic at the top, but are loose and frilly at the bottom. Sometimes these are called tap pants.

     

    Slips

    Worn underneath skirts, dresses and blouses to prevent these garments from being see-through, which would result in unwanted attention.

  • Guide to Thongs & G Strings

    Whether for form or function, thongs are a popular mainstay of many women's lingerie drawer. Thongs were once the domain of exotic dancers. Now, these skimpy panties are the lingerie of choice for everyone from teens to mature women.

     

    Thongs are a special type of underwear that ride high on the hips and leave the bottom almost completely exposed. Some people jokingly refer to them as "butt floss." As tacky as that sounds, it is a fairly accurate description of this type of underwear. They can be uncomfortable or barely noticeable, depending on the type and material chosen.

     

    Why Wear a Thong ?

    For people who have never worn thongs, they seem a silly choice of undergarment. After all, they offer little in the way of support or coverage. Still, there are some perfectly logical reasons to wear the itty-bitty panties:

     

    Thongs eliminate panty lines.

     

    Thongs can be a sexy alternative to teddies.

     

    Thongs are an attractive addition to sheer nighties.

     

    When paired with decorative bras, thongs make a pretty lingerie set.

     

    For the very young and very adventurous, thongs make a bold fashion statement underneath low-rise jeans.

     

    Many men fantasize about seeing "their women" in revealing panties.

     

    Thongs can inject a bit of spice into the love life.

     

    Types & Styles of Thongs

    Although the issue seems pretty straight-forward at first glance, there are actually several varieties of bottom-baring lingerie:

     

    G-String: When people refer to butt floss, they are picturing a g-string. Featuring little more than a triangle in the front and a thin string around the hips and between the cheeks.

     

    Chip G String: A very small G String with a small, low cut front panel.

     

    Micro G String: This is probably the smallest G String currently available. A bikini wax is definitely recommended for this tiniest of thongs.

     

    Half Back: More coverage than a traditional T Back thong but les than a full back bikini.

     

    Micro Thong: This thong had G String sides, thong back and chip cut front panel.

     

    Quick Release Thong: Traditional style thong with side clips for easy exit. This thong is an exotic dancer favorite.

     

    SJ Thong: Like a traditional thong but with skinny sides like a G String.

     

    T-Back: T-backs offer more coverage than g-strings, and the side straps stretch straight across the top of the buttocks. From the back, the straps resemble the letter "T."

     

    Rio: The Rio is similar to the T-back, except the side straps rise above the hips.

     

    Tanga: The Tanga exposes the bottom of the butt cheeks, but covers everything else.

     

    Special Considerations When Buying a Thong

    Whether you are considering thongs for yourself or as a gift, there are a few shopping considerations.

     

    What Kind to Buy?

    G-Strings are generally not comfortable enough for all-day use.

    Rios or Tangas are more comfortable for regular use.

     

    For elimination of panty lines, T-backs are highly effective.

    If you are buying panties to wear for everyday use, buy the softest, most comfortable material you can find.

     

    For a first-timer, Tanga cut panties and Rio cut panties offer a gentle initiation into the world of sexy panties.

     

    For a woman concerned about the size of her hips, Rio cut panties are generally more forgiving. (Just a tip, though: if you are baring your bottom, he will definitely not be critiquing your hips!)

     

    G-strings and others with little frontal coverage may require a close shave or Brazilian wax.

     

    Materials

    Thongs are available in a wide variety of materials. The type you buy is largely a matter of personal preference, but there are a few things to consider:

     

    For everyday use, cotton is a safer choice. Cotton is a breathable fabric and lessens the risk of infection.

     

    For special occasions or intimate moments, silk is a sensual choice.

     

    For elimination of panty lines, Lycra and thin cotton are good choices.

     

    For a daring night-time look, PVC or leather are possibilities.

  • How to Care For and Clean Rhinestone Jewelry

    Rhinestone jewelry is costume jewelry made of base metal, a simple alloy. Most costume jewelry does not contain nickel. Better quality rhinestone costume jewelry uses brass as a base metal. The coatings used vary, but seldom contain real silver or gold. Unlike real silver and gold jewelry, the silver-tone or gold-tone finish will oxidize and wear off over time.

     

    Rhinestones can be set into jewelry in two ways:

     

    Castings

     

    A mold is made of base metal and rhinestones are glued into place. This is the least expensive method of producing rhinestone jewelry, and usually uses the lowest quality products.

     

    Prong Settings

     

    Rhinestones are set in individual cups, point side down, and secured with 4 prongs, one in each corner. Each cup is connected to the next by a double "T" connector forming a chain. The quality of this product is dependant upon the quality of the metal used. The "softer" the metal, the weaker the setting and the more likely the stone will fall out. This chain is formed into the desired design and soldered into place. The smoothness of the soldering is also an indication of the quality of the product.

     

    How to Clean Rhinestone Jewelry

     

    A soft cloth with alcohol is the best way to gently clean rhinestone jewelry. Since the sparkle of rhinestones is the reflection of the foil backing on each stone, it is important: Do Not use any solvent that can destroy or affect this backing. Water and other liquids can cause the foil to separate or tarnish, ruining the rhinestone.

     

    Rhinestone jewelry is officially listed internationally as "imitation jewelry." As such, the metals used are of low quality, meaning that you will rarely, if ever, find rhinestone jewelry which actually uses gold, silver, or other precious metal. The plating will fade over time as a result of exposure to air and body oils. When this happens, there is no way to reverse this. Rhinestone jewelry has a lifespan, and will deteriorate over time, unlike jewelry made of gold or silver. This is a compromise for price. A simple pair of rhinestone stud earrings may cost $2, whereas a pair of CZ stud earrings set in 10K gold would cost $40-$50, and the same size diamond stud earrings, even with low quality diamonds, may cost $150. Unlike diamonds, rhinestones do not last forever.

     

    Storing Rhinestone Jewelry

     

    Rhinestone jewelry should be stored in an air tight zip lock bag. This will reduce the effect air has on the finish.

     

    Rhinestone Jewelry FAQs

     

    How Durable is Stretch Rhinestone Jewelry?

     

    Rhinestone jewelry, or any quality jewelry, was never meant to stretch.  ALL STRETCH RHINESTONE JEWELRY IS GUARANTEED TO FAIL OVER TIME. What allows rhinestone jewelry to stretch is an elastic set under the stones running through each cup. As with any elastic, it will break or disintegrate over time. When this happens, the jewelry will lose elasticity and shape. Also, the forced pressure created by the stretching movement has a tendency to loosen the stones from their setting and fall out.

    What Should I Look for When Buying Rhinestone Jewelry?

     

    When looking at rhinestone jewelry it is important to examine the way the products made. First look at the setting, how are the stones held in place. If they are glued, it is a low quality product. if they are set, look at the prongs and how they hold the stones in place. How secure are the stones? How smooth is the surface? Do they catch on clothing easily? Second, look at the reverse side to se how well the product is soldered. It should be smooth without noticeable welds. Third, look at the ease with which the links move together. There should be no kinks or stiffness in this movement. Finally, look at the overall color of the stones to see their clearness and brilliance. Even a rhinestone should have some "fire".

     

    How Do You Reset a Rhinestone?

     

    If the stone is set in casting, it must be glued back into place. Never use a glue gun, hot glue, crazy glue, or super glue. these products will cloud the stone, or turn it black. The best glues to use are Gem Tac or Aleen's Glass and Mirror Glue. For a repair requiring extra strength, use E6000. These glues can be found in most craft stores. Be careful using E6000, this product sets quickly and removing a miss-set rhinestone with the backing intact is very difficult or even impossible.

     

    How Do You Repair a Broken Rhinestone Chain?

     

    Once a chain, or line, of rhinestones has been broken there are two ways to repair it. The break often occurs when the double "T" connector fails. This is usually the result of the chain being pulled on too tightly, or bent with too much pressure. To be repaired, the damaged "T" and the cup holding it must be removed. Gently straighten the four prongs and remove the stone. With the tip of a pair of needle nose pliers, gently spread the cup open and remove the damaged "T". Perform the same procedure on the next cup and remove the stone. Then gently spread the cup open and insert the two exposed "T's" into the cup to repair the chain. Once this is done, gently squeeze the cup closed to secure the "T's" in place and reset the stones, carefully bending the prongs to secure the stones. The chain is now repaired.

     

    An alternative method of repair is to wire the broken segments to together using a thin wire, such as that found in a twist tie. To repair, wrap the wire around the space before the broken link. Holding the broken segments together, continue to wrap the wire around the space following the break. this should secure the chain so that it is usable. If done correctly, the connection should not be too noticeable.

     

    NOTE: SOLDERING WITH A HOME MODEL SOLDERING GUN WILL NOT HOLD. Also, the heat generated will cause the metal to turn black, and the foil behind the stone will turn dark, making the stone appear black.

     

    Why Can't I Find Rhinestone Bras in XL Sizes?

     

    As with any chain, it is only as strong as the weakest link. In the case of rhinestone chain, it is held together by the double "T" connectors. The support needed for a full size bra will cause the "T" to break. It is unreasonable to think a full figure bust can be supported by a strand of rhinestones. Although this is a fact, "DD" rhinestone bras are available, but you should be aware of their fragility.

     

    Can I Dance While Wearing A Rhinestone Outfit?

     

    Rhinestone jewelry, like any jewelry, is designed to be a body accent. Under normal circumstances, it will last a long time. However, if undo pressure is placed on the links that hold it together rhinestone jewelry will break. It was never meant to be used as a costume where extreme pressure is applied. Sitting on, throwing, or mishandling rhinestone jewelry will cause damage. It is designed to be a glamour accessory, worn with care.

     

    How Long Can I Expect Rhinestone Jewelry To Last?

     

    Like a pair of shoes, a new dress, or hosiery, rhinestone costume jewelry looks best when new, but does have a lifespan. How long it lasts depends on the care with which it is used. Unlike diamond that last a lifetime, rhinestone jewelry must be replaced over time, just as those shoes or dress will not last forever. When you purchase fine rhinestone jewelry you must consider the cost as a purchase of a new accessory, not a lifetime investment.

     

    If you are looking for quality rhinestone accessories such as rhinestone belts, rhinestone earrings, rhinestone necklaces and chokers, rhinestone skirts, rhinestone thongs, rhinestone halter tops, rhinestone bra tops, and rhinestone fetish wear accessories, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights for all of your fine rhinestone jewelry and rhinestone accessory needs.

  • How to Care for Your Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie

    The care of your leather clothing and leather lingerie is very important to keep it in like new condition. The most important thing to do is to follow the manufacturers care instructions. Some other things that you can do are:

     

    ·    If your leather clothing or leather lingerie becomes wet, let it dry at room temperature.

     

    ·    If your leather clothing or leather lingerie becomes stained, gently blot liquid stains with a clean cloth.

     

    ·    It is a good idea to use a repellent product to condition your leather item.

     

    ·    Store your leather clothing or leather lingerie on a wide wooden, plastic or padded hanger to help maintain the shape.

     

    ·    Do not store your leather clothing or leather lingerie in a hot or damp area.

     

    ·    Leather clothing and leather lingerie needs to be stored in a temperature controlled environment.

     

    ·    If you will be covering your leather when you are storing it; cover it with a breathable cloth like cotton sheets.

     

    ·    Do not cover your leather clothing or leather lingerie with plastic. The plastic will cause the leather to dry out.

     

    ·    Avoid exposing your leather to direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time.
     

    All leather items can last for a lifetime if they are regularly maintained and treated well. Leather is skin and just as you would clean your own, you need to clean and nourish your leather to help retain its durability and texture.

    Preservation:

     

    ·    Leather conditioners should be applied with a soft cloth to not only help in the cleaning process, but to also provide good water repellent properties.

     

     Cleaning:

     

    ·    Continual contact with moisture (sweat, rain, urine, alcohol, etc.,) can cause the leather to stiffen. Before you start cleaning the full surface of your leather item, test out the cleaner on a smaller, less visible area.  Wait a few minutes. If you don't notice any color distortion, proceed with the rest of the item.

     

    ·    When cleaning your leather NEVER use strong detergents such as laundry detergent.  Always choose a product that helps preserve the leather's natural lubricating oils rather than strip them away. Most cleaning products sold in department and shoe stores are safe. But, it never hurts to ask.

     

    ·    Warm soapy water, using baby shampoo or a similar soap, is the best cleaning solution for removing difficult or oily marks, stains or odors. Rub baby shampoo into the area of any oily stains before rinsing. Try to avoid cleaners that leave any sort of grease or residue. Residue can make leather vulnerable to bacteria, which will tarnish the leather and eventually break down the stitching. To remove the excess cleaner, use a slightly dampened cloth or a small brush around the stitching.

     

    ·    Make sure soap/shampoo is rinsed out thoroughly to avoid stiffening.

     

    ·    Leather should never be dried in front of a direct heat source as this damages the leather and also causes the hide to stiffen. Make sure to clean and treat your leather before it's dry. Never use heat to dry leather (it should air-dry) and always stuff the garment while it's drying, in order to make sure it maintains its shape.

     

    ·    When storing leather articles, don’t throw them to the bottom of the wardrobe, instead hang them up and make sure they are ventilated to prevent them from molding.

     

    ·    Get a Nubuck cloth; it's a great leather care tool for cleaning and restoring your item to its original look.

     

    ·    Clean your leather goods as often as you need to and make sure they're dust-free at all times.

     

    ·    Never use caustic household chemicals to clean your leather items.

     

    Removing Stains and Smells from Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie:

    Sweat: When the leather becomes slightly stiffened or an itchy irritation occurs, this is usually a sign that sweat has permeated the leather. Washing in warm water with baby shampoo or fabric softener will help soften the leather and remove the irritation.

    Odors: To remove odors, use a teaspoon of bicarbonate soda crystals in about 1 quart/liter of warm water and let the solution soak into the skin.

    Oils and Oil Based Lubricants: These can be difficult to remove. Use baby shampoo or a similar soap in a few tablespoons of water and rubbing slowly onto the spots can help their removal. Rinse thoroughly. As another alternative, most oil or grease stains can be lifted by grinding up blackboard chalk, sprinkling it onto the affected area, and leaving the powder on for one full day.

     

    Wax: Place blotting paper or brown paper on the leather and then apply a cool/moderate iron to remove wax from leather. Keep applying the iron on clean blotting or brown paper, to the wax spot until the paper is no longer absorbing the wax.

    Urine Stains: Uric acid found in urine is very damaging to leather. When leather has been in contact with urine, it should be washed out immediately after use with warm soapy water (baby shampoo). Leaving urine-stained items overnight can cause irreparable damage.

    Blood Stains: Leather becomes stiff and odorous if blood is allowed to dry. If blood gets on your leather clothing or leather lingerie, hand wash immediately.

    Hygiene: Germs can be killed by soaking leather clothes in 1 teaspoon bleach to 1 gallon of water for up to 1/2 hour. Rinse thoroughly and hand wash immediately after bleaching. Bleaching can damage leather so minimal use is necessary.

    Removing Mold and Mildew: In case mildew builds up, mix one cup of rubbing alcohol with one cup of water. Dip a clean cloth in the solution and wipe the mildewed area. For more persistent mildew, use mild soap containing germicide and water. Wipe the excess soap with a clean cloth and let dry.

     

    Washing Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie:

     

    ·    Hand wash in warm water.

     

    ·    Use baby shampoo, mild soap or fabric softener. DO NOT use laundry detergent.

     

    ·    Gently squeeze the water from the leather clothing or leather lingerie. Do not twist or wring as this can cause the garment to crease or wrinkle.

     

    ·    Make sure to completely dry all metal fittings or they can rust.

     

    ·    Lay out flat on clean, dry towel to soak up extra moisture. Dry at room temperature without direct heat. It can take 48 - 72 hours to dry depending on the garment.

     

    ·    Apply leather conditioner with a soft cloth. Be sure to remove all excess leather conditioner. Do not apply leather conditioner to the suede side of leather.

     

    ·    Always store in a well ventilated area.

     

    If in doubt, have your leather clothing or leather lingerie professionally cleaned. Many quality dry cleaners offer this service.

    Metal Fittings:

    Most buckles, rivets, studs, snaps, rings, etc., are nickel plated steel with the exception of chain which is chrome plated steel and other metal fittings that are brass coated. If the fittings are not cleaned regularly or cleaned and dried after contact with moisture, rusting will occur. When cleaning leather with conditioner, applying the conditioner to the metal fittings will increase their longevity. Surface rust can be removed with chrome cleaner, Autosol, WD40 (nickel), or Brasso (brass).  

    For leather clothing and leather lingerie, it is recommended to look for manufacturers that no longer use nickel plating. Aside from the above mentioned problems, many people have a sensitivity or allergy to nickel which can cause painful irritations where it comes into contact with the skin.

     

    Repairing Damage to Your Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie:

    If your leather clothing and leather lingerie becomes scuffed or scratched, scuff marks and scratches on leather can be disguised by applying a shoe polish/leather dye or marker pen. Test on inside of hem first to make sure shade isn’t too dark/light. Stitching which has been broken is best repaired with a heavy duty sewing machine. Many dry cleaners offer professional leather cleaning and repair services.

     

    Conditioning Your Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie:

     

    ·    All types of leather need conditioning. The fats and/or oils found in conditioners help lubricate leather and replenish its suppleness.

     

    ·    Beware of products that contain petroleum or mineral oils; they will damage your leather goods over time.

     

    ·    Similar to cleaning products, avoid conditioners that leave thick, greasy residue. Instead, look for products that penetrate the leather's fibers.

     

    ·    Condition your leather items several times during the season. Do so more often if the item is exposed to hot sunny conditions or moisture.

     

    ·    If your leather has been dampened, restore its flexibility by applying a bit of conditioner just before it dries out completely. Lexol is generally a good conditioner for most leathers.

     

    Polishing Your Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie:

     

    ·    For a clean and glossy finish, polish your leather item with a fine polishing agent. Be careful when polishing, as some products contain coloring agents that might stain the leather's natural color.

     

    ·    Some products might also clog the leather's pores, causing permanent damage. This is usually the case for waxes and many silicon-based products. (Again, you should always test out a new product on a small, less visible area before proceeding with the rest of the item.) Also, keep in mind that using mink oil or other animal fats might darken leather.

    ·    Buff your leather to a shine.

     

    Protecting Your Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie:

     

    ·    Protection is perhaps the most important step of leather care. Obviously, you should try to protect every new leather item before wearing it.

     

    ·    It's recommended that you protect your leather item against moisture such as rain, snow, sweat, and other liquid hazards. Unprotected leather will stiffen and crack rather quickly. Again, beware of the protector you choose. Some protectors might fill the leather's pores with grease, which will eventually make cleaning, conditioning and polishing more difficult.

     

    ·    Always apply leather protector on clean, dry leather. Apply it periodically and make sure the item is dry before wearing it.

    ·    Several types of leather require more specialized maintenance. If in doubt, have your leather cleaned and maintained professionally.

     

    ·    Tana Style 16 Protective Spray protects leather from moisture and staining, and is recommended for all types of leather.

     

    Storing Your Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie - Leather Storage Tips:

     

    ·    Always store your leather items in cool, dry places.

    ·    Never store leather in plastic bags or other nonporous covers or containers.

     

    ·    When hanging leather pants or jackets, avoid using metal hangers.

     

    ·    Always stuff empty leather handbags with newspaper and use shoetrees when storing leather shoes and boots. 

     

    If you are looking for quality leather clothing and lingerie that has nickel free metal fittings and uses AZO free dyes, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find bold and daring club wear, fetish wear, leather clothing, PVC clothing, leather lingerie and PVC lingerie.

  • How to Care For Your Thongs, G Strings and Sexy Underwear

    Thongs and G Strings, while certainly small in size, are not necessarily small in price. While thongs and G Strings can be purchased in quantity from discount stores, a quality thong or G String cost upwards of $15 to $30. So, whether you paid $5 or $30, knowing how to care for your sexy underwear can keep them looking hot for a lot longer.

     

    Thongs are more delicate than the white cotton bikini panties or briefs that most of us wear on a daily basis. Treating them as the delicates that they are will extend the life span and appearance.  Knowing proper laundry care is important to this end. Regardless of fabric content, most thongs and G Strings are washable.

     

    The laundry care term “washable" means different things to different people. For myself, I want “washable” to mean I can use a little common sense, sort the colors, throw it into the washer, into the dryer, hang it up and then wear it without having to iron it first. To guys in general, and most college students, male or female, washable means to cram as many clothes as possible into the washing machine without regard to water temperature, color or fabric and hope for the best. Well, when it comes to thongs and G Strings, washable means "hand wash only" regardless of the fabric care instruction label.

    Even on the most delicate cycle a washing machine puts a lot of stress on fabric. And, since there isn't much fabric on your average thongs to begin with, it doesn't need any extra stress; especially when that stress shows up as rough fabric patches, pilling, elastic “hairs” and reduced elasticity.

    Here's how to keep your thongs hot and sexy:

     

    1. Run some cold water into the sink and add a few drops of any commercial hand washing detergent, think Woolite. Don't use regular laundry detergent, shampoo, a bar of soap, or dishwashing detergent! If you're away from home and don't have access to the right detergent, then rinse with plain water.
    2. Submerge your thongs in the water and let them soak for a while. Then swish them around for a few seconds while gently squeezing them underwater to force the water and detergent through the fabric's pores. If you've got any scrubbing that needs to be done, do it gently.
    3. Gently squeeze the water through the material a few more times and then rinse the thongs in running cold water. Lay them flat on a towel and let them dry naturally. Don't put your thongs in the clothes dryer even on the gentle setting. The heat from the dryer will definitely damage the elastic.


    If you absolutely must use a washing machine then use the cold water setting and the delicate or hand wash cycle. Use lingerie bag and toss the bag into the washing machine. Once the washer is finished, allow to air dry. Remember, a clean thong is a happy thong.

     

    If you are looking for sexy thongs, G Strings, and sexy underwear, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy thongs, G Strings, sexy underwear and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

  • How to Choose Sexy Lingerie

    One thing that women of all shapes and sizes, from the most petite to the big and beautiful, have in common is that the lingerie they buy must make them feel wonderful about themselves. That means sexy, sensual, desirable but most significantly, special. When your special someone turns off the television because he noticed you in your sexy lingerie, it’s a definite plus and ego-boost.

    Modern women of today consider their lingerie as an important part of their wardrobe. Online shopping has made it very easy, and opened up a new world for finding lingerie that is sexy, exotic and remains comfortable to wear. There are a few simple tips to bear in mind when shopping for lingerie so you will always look wonderful and feel great.

    Even though all women are beautiful, there are those times when you just require something a little extra to make you sparkle, and lingerie can do that. Fashion and comfort go together like peaches and cream. Choosing the right lingerie for you may take a bit of practice, however, since there is such a tremendous range of styles available. Remember, sexy lingerie does not have to be uncomfortable.

    Tips on Selecting Sexy Lingerie

    The majority of women can wear red, white and black. This is why almost all sexy lingerie comes in these three colors. Blondes look beautiful in pastels; brunettes need the stronger colors like sapphire blue or emerald green, while fiery redheads look fantastic in green, blues and earth tones. Satin, lace, silk, leather, PVC, sheer mesh and velvet are just a few of the many materials available. Remember that a sheer material is always going to be more revealing.

    Sexy Lingerie and Your Body Type

    You need to feel comfortable with your own body before you can feel totally at ease with yourself. Emphasizing the correct body parts, which is not necessarily showing more skin, will make you feel appealing and desirable. Always accentuate your positive features and play down or understate the negative. If your body shape is straight – with bust, waist and hips almost the same choose a style that will drape over your figure and stay away from tight fitting lingerie. Comfort is just as important as the way you look. Nobody wants to feel like they are being restricted in the wrong places.

     

    If you have:

     

    Small breasts

     

    Choose lingerie that shows off your bottom or legs to distract from your breast size. If you are thin try stockings and garters they do a good job of lowering the eye to the legs. You want to bring the eyes to the area of your body that you feel comfortable with.

     

    Large or Droopy Breasts

     

    Styles in plus size lingerie with under wire or halter tops can help lift and enhance cleavage. Spandex and Lycra stretch materials will allow you to adjust your breasts and minimize them some what with a smooth look. 

     

    Large Bottom or Hips

     

    If you got plus size boobs show them off! A long loose gown with a sheer top would be perfect for this. Avoid fitted waist styles; go for items that are straighter cut. Remember, you want that fabric to skim, drape or flow gracefully around your hips, not bind, pull or wrinkle in the wrong places.  If you do not want to draw attention to this area, consider staying away from Lingerie pieces such as Bustiers and Waist Cinchers because these garments are tight fitted and could accentuate this area.

     

    Belly

     

    Keep styles loose in the waist. Use fancy thongs, panties, or bras to bring eyes to more favorable areas.  Remember, you want that fabric to skim, drape or flow and not to bind, pull or wrinkle in the wrong places.

     

    Short

     

    Gowns with slits in the leg area will give you a taller illusion. Short baby dolls can also give you a leggy look. Short is not a bad thing. Select styles that are proportioned for your height. Do not choose lingerie that is too long either in length or on the rise. If your height or proportion is a sizing problem, check out stores for petites. If all else fails, finding an experienced seamstress is invaluable.

     

    Tall

     

    Find styles that are vertically striped or cut. Tops or skirts that tie around the waist. White is a good color for you. The main thing to keep in mind about your height is to not select something that is supposed to be long but looks too short. A long, flowing sheer robe that is supposed to be roughly floor length but actually hits well above your ankles just doesn’t work. It’s better to opt for styles that are cut to be short and highlight your long, beautiful legs.

     

    Robes

     

    Sheer robes can give you a sense of security in sexy women's lingerie.  Robes have the amazing ability to make you feel like you have covered all of your flaws. Get a beautiful, sexy robe and it could dress up any bra and panty set and make you look and feel like a million bucks.

     

    Body Shape

     

    If your body shape is a Pear or Triangle: A Pear shape is smaller on top then tapers out. This does not mean small busted. This means women who have a small upper body build. Try something a little loose fitting on the top – but not too loose.

    If you are a Pear or Triangle with small breasts and are sensitive about this area, choose something that does not emphasize this part of the body.  A sexy baby doll may be a good choice. If you want to add some cleavage tries something Padded or Push-up Padded

     

    If your body shape is an Up-side Down Pear or Inverted

     

    Triangle: This body type has wider shoulders and smaller hips. This usually means a muscular or bigger upper body build. Women today work hard to have muscle tone and wear it well. If they want to If you want frills, try to look for something to wrap around the hips. You may want to add an accessory like a wrap, robe, kimono, or a feather boa.

     

    If your body shape is an Hour Glass: This body type is equally proportioned on both the top and bottom with a smaller waist. Almost everything worked well for this body type

    What Not to Wear

    Beautiful lingerie and indulging yourself go together. Keeping your lingerie in good condition and properly cared for will extend its use and will help you feel comfortable and sexy. Even though most of the lingerie we wear is not seen, it still has a big affect on the way we look and the way our clothes fit. Looking fantastic makes you feel beautiful. Here are a few hints:

     

    ·    Make sure your lingerie isn’t worn, ripped or the wrong size.

     

    ·    Thongs and G Strings worn under tight fitting skirts and pants will prevent panty lines from showing.

     

    ·    Legs look sexy and slimmer in black nylons.

     

    ·    Light colors make your legs appear heavier.

     

    ·    A one-piece body suit does a great job of hiding any bulges and makes you look slimmer.

     

    ·    Always, and this can’t be stressed enough, wear a bra that fits correctly.

     

    If you are looking for sexy lingerie, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

  • Laundry Care for Your Sexy Lingerie

    Taking care of your sexy lingerie as you would take care of any other quality garment is very important. Your goal should be to make it last as long as possible. What this means is that your lingerie needs to be treated differently than you would treat your regular garments. You should always make it a point to read the label on your lingerie in order to get the proper washing instructions.

     

    The best method is to hand-wash all your lingerie in cold water. Hot washing could shrink your lingerie, especially satin lingerie by 10% to 20% in size. When you are washing your bras, panties, nightgowns and any other lingerie, be sure to use using a mild detergent like Woolite. You should let them soak for about 3 minutes. Most regular detergents contain extremely harsh chemicals that can damage your lingerie.

     

    If you insist on washing your bras in the washing machine, you should first place them in a Lingerie Wash Bag. This mesh bag will help keep the bras from being wrapped around the agitator. This protects your bra from being stretched out and if your bra is under wired, it protects the under wire from being twisted and puncturing the bra material. Also try to avoid placing your bras, panties and other lingerie in the dryer. The heat of the dryer breaks down the Lycra, spandex and elastic.

     

    Lingerie Laundry Tips

     

    When machine washing is recommended, wash on the delicate cycle with other delicate fabrics.

     

    Do not wring lingerie. Wringing, even hand wringing, can cause wrinkles and creases which may be difficult to get out. It is better to gently squeeze out the excess water or press the garment between two clean, dry towels to remove the excess water and then allow the garment to drip dry.

     

    Line drying or drip dry is always the best choice since a hot dryer shortens the life of the fabric. However, if you use the dryer, set the controls on delicate or even air dry. If a label suggests hand washing, use a cleansing product designed for delicate fabrics.

     

    For machine washable bras, fasten hooks and eyes to avoid tangling, then place bras in a lingerie bag before washing on the delicate cycle in cool water with gentle detergent. Air-dry only.

     

    Silk should be hand washed in cold water and dried flat. Wash colors separately. Do not bleach lingerie.

     

    Remember, if in doubt, read the label. If it says “Dry Clean Only”, there is a reason. Everything else can almost always be hand washed. 

     

    If you are looking for sexy lingerie, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

  • Leather Clothing and Leather Lingerie - Identifying Leather

    Leather has been around for a very long time. It is resilient, versatile and if cared for property can last for a lifetime. If you are looking for a particular feel or appearance, the type of leather you choose will be very important. The wonderful thing about leather is that each piece is unique. Because it is a natural product, not man made, no two pieces are identical. And, in spite of the miracles of modern technology, leather can not be truly duplicated by machine.

     

    Leather lingerie is very popular for both women and men. Sexy leather lingerie is quite special and nothing really compares to the feel and touch of leather lingerie.

    Leather doesn’t itch and it doesn’t scratch when you put it on. Leather is first cool to the touch and then warms to your body temperature, forming to your shape, much like your favorite pair of jeans. However, nothing smells quite like leather. All leather has its own aroma that is unmistakable. The smell of new expensive shoes or boots…the interior of a luxury car…

    From leather gloves to leather chaps and leather pants to leather lingerie, leather has been used throughout history. But wearing leather in an intimate way does something quite different than any thing else. It seems to bring out certain primal feelings that are buried deep in your subconscious mind.

    The most common types of leather used for leather clothing and leather fashion accessories are:

     

    Cowhide: This is one of the most durable types of leather. It's used mostly for motorcycle gear, boots and shoes. It is also used for quality leather clothing and leather lingerie.

     

    Water Buffalo: Not as durable as cowhide, but it's cheaper because of its large supply.

     

    Lambskin: Soft and supple leather generally used for jackets, pants and other fashion apparel. This leather is often used for less expensive leather clothing and leather lingerie.

     

    Sheepskin: Similar to lambskin but comes from mature sheep. It is thicker, more durable and usually more expensive than lambskin.


    Regardless of the actual type, leather usually falls into one of three categories:

    Aniline Leather:

     

    This leather is also called Natural Leather, Pure Leather, Naked Leather or Unprotected Leather. Aniline leathers are colored with transparent dye, enabling you to see the actual surface grain and markings. Aniline leather has little or no protective treatments applied to them. A spray with a wax finish is occasionally sprayed on Aniline leather to give it short term water repellency. For care and maintenance purposes you need to know if the surface has been brushed. If the surface feels velvety, it has been brushed. If it feels smooth, it has not been brushed. This is where it becomes difficult to distinguish between Nubuck and Aniline leather. Some ways that you can identify Aniline leather are:

     

    ·    Lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color scratch mark. If it scratches to a lighter color, it is Aniline. Nubuck will also do the same.

     

    ·   Wet your finger and lightly rub it into the leather to see if it darkens. With Aniline it should darken lightly but dry invisibly.

     

    Semi-Aniline Leather:

     

    Semi-Aniline leather is also called Finished Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Everyday Leather, Pigmented Leather or Painted Leather. Semi-Aniline leathers have combined the best aspects of a natural product and tannery technology to create a leather product that is more uniform in appearance and color. Protected leathers are the most common leathers and purchased by consumers more than the other categories, because of its resilience. Semi-Aniline leather has a finish applied to the leather surface that makes the leather more resilient to the rigors of heavy use. The pigments and finish that is applied to protect the leather also will affect the softness. The more finish that is applied, the less soft the leather will be.

    Some ways that you can identify Semi-Aniline leather are:

     

    ·    Lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color scratch mark. If it does not leave a lighter scratch mark (the color remains the same) then this has a protective finish on the leather.

     

    ·    Use soft cleaner and clean the leather. The cleaner should stay on top of the finish and should not darken the leather.

    ·    With protected leather the surface should have some sort of sheen to it.  

     

    Nubuck Leather:

     

    Nubuck Leather is also called Distressed Leather, Bomber Leather or Suede. These leathers are actually Aniline leathers. The surface on this type of leather has been brushed leaving the texture similar to velvet on leather. This type of leather is often confused with Suede. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather and Nubuck is derived from an effect that is done to the grain side, which makes this leather incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the leather even more absorbent than the Aniline leathers.

     

    Nubuck Leather and Aniline Leather are very difficult to distinguish from each other. The most difficult to identify are the leather products which are in the distressed leathers category or the leathers that have a waxed finish applied. Nubuck leathers can have an endless variety of embossed patterns and color applied to them and can also reflect the natural leather grain, thus making Nubuck very popular in the fashion world.

     

    Some ways that you can identify Nubuck are:

     

    ·   The surface texture should feel very similar to velvet. When you run your hand across the surface it should leave shading traces just like when a carpet is vacuumed in one direction and then in another. If the leather surface leaves this shading it is Nubuck.

     

    ·    With a wet finger rub it lightly on the surface, if the surface darkens and dries to a darker shade, it is Nubuck.

     

    ·    If the leather has a waxed surface on it, you can rub an area of the leather with a sponge several times, removing the wax and see if it meets the criteria above.

     

    If you are looking for quality cow hide leather clothing and lingerie that has nickel free metal fittings and uses AZO free dyes, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find bold and daring club wear, fetish wear, leather clothing, PVC clothing, leather lingerie and PVC lingerie.

  • Sexy Lingerie, Naughty Lingerie and Lingerie Club Wear

    Lingerie has come a long way from boned corsets, girdles and other restrictive foundation garments worn in by women in the past. Today, lingerie is designed for the woman as a person rather than the woman as an object. Lingerie is now made to be comfortable in addition to being sexy. Sexy lingerie and lingerie inspired street wear and club wear is showing up everywhere from lingerie stores to conservative department stores.

    There are basically four main categories of lingerie:

    Practical Lingerie: This is lingerie, foundation garments, sleep wear and lounge wear which are purchased for daily wear. Think functional use rather than style and sex appeal. This includes everything from everyday garments for work to just plain standard nighttime sleepwear. Sometimes you just want something plain for lounging around in and lingerie doesn’t always have to be a Babydoll or teddy. Practical lingerie includes basic bras, panties, sport bras, your favorite old over sized T shirt that you like to sleep in, casual loungewear and sleep wear. Practical lingerie is “comfort clothes”… soft, warm, and comfy but not necessarily sexy or even pretty.

    Sexy Lingerie: This is lingerie; foundation garments, sleep wear and lounge wear which are purchased because they make the person wearing them feel sexy. Sexy, exotic lingerie combines both form and function. Some women who buy this type of lingerie do so to feel sexy throughout the day having the knowledge that they are hiding something provocative under their everyday clothing. This also can give a woman a sense of power and confidence knowing that if her male co-worker had any idea what she had on underneath it would drive him insane. Sexy lingerie includes cute, sexy bra and panty sets, camisole and panty sets, a sexy thong or a G String panty.

    Naughty Lingerie: This is lingerie that is designed to seduce and entrance. While usually worn for special occasions it can be exciting to wear nightly if you have several different items to make it stay interesting and fun. This the type of lingerie most purchased by men. This group of lingerie includes lingerie costumes, cupless lingerie, open crotch lingerie, bras with peek-a-boo cups, garter belts, pasties and anything else that can be imagined.

    Lingerie Club Wear: This is lingerie that can do double duty as both sexy lingerie and street wear or club wear. Current fashion trends show baby doll lingerie, corsets, waist cinchers, chemises, camisoles, PVC bras, leather bras, bustiers, and other styles of sexy lingerie worn as sexy club wear and street wear, both alone or in combination with more conservative clothing.

     

    Where to find sexy lingerie, naughty lingerie and lingerie club wear

     

    With the internet, having access to a wide range of sexy lingerie, naughty lingerie and lingerie club wear has become fast, easy and embarrassment free. You can even shop for you sexy lingerie while wearing your practical, comfy lingerie and no one knows you are buying a sexy teddy while wearing your over sized pajama pants and bunny slippers. Have fun shopping for lingerie. If you are feeling adventurous, you can get some good ideas on what is hot by going to a classy club that has exotic dancers and make notes about what they are wearing.  Exotic dancers in upscale clubs make a very good living and usually are wearing the latest lingerie fashions. Not that brave? Surf the internet. Most of the major fashion magazines now have their magazines online. Do a search for sexy lingerie and be sure to check out the result listings beyond page 1 or 2. Also keep in mind that the returned results for “sexy lingerie” will be different than “lingerie sexy” so get a little creative with your search terms and have some fun.

     

    If you are looking for sexy lingerie, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

  • Lingerie Buying Guide for Men

    Buying lingerie for your significant other can be one of the most romantic things you can do. It's an intimate gift which, if you get it right, shows you really care, really do understand her and have put the effort in to really think about a gift they will like.

     

    It's also one of the most stressful and dangerous gifts you can buy so don't rush in to it!

     

    Get it right and there are some major brownie points to be earned here. You may even get to unwrap your present later...

     

    Get it wrong however, and you will almost certainly live to regret it...if you're lucky!

     

    Before you even think about buying make sure you avoid the following pitfalls and take heed of the helpful lingerie buying advice for guys we provide here. A few minutes reading can save you hours of grief.

     

    Common Lingerie Buying Mistakes

     

    Guys, the most important things to remember when buying lingerie as a present are these:

     

    1) It's NOT for You!

     

    Remember who you are buying lingerie for and tailor your future choice to this. If you buy something in a style she doesn't usually wear then the chances are you've got it wrong. If you buy it in a color or design she doesn't usually wear then again, you've probably got it wrong. Buy something YOU like and the chances are...yup, you guessed it, you've got it wrong!

     

    The Golden Rule - You are buying lingerie for her...and NOT for yourself!

     

    Yes, those models look great in the skimpy, slutty lingerie and no doubt you'd love to see her in the same, but think of the message you are sending. Do you want your gift to say "You're special and I love you" or "Love? I just want to ... you!"

     

    Unless she likes it, opting for the leather, PVC, crotchless, cupless, peephole lingerie, French Maid or Naughty Nurse outfit and you'll no doubt end up sleeping with Rover that night. Go for something silky or lacey and you are more likely to be on the right track.

     

    2) Do Your Research

     

    The second biggest mistake is going into a lingerie store blind. DO NOT try to guess her size, favorite style or for that matter, try to guess anything at all. You'll fail and fail miserably. Unfortunately, women don't work in S, M, L, and XL sizes like us; they have to make it more complicated. When you walk into a lingerie store prepare to be hit by a dizzying array of numbers and letters associated with an even more confusing selection of strange, fascinating and wonderful products which to the untrained eye, all look the same, but to her, are very, very different.

     

    Think push-up, plunge, balcony, gel filled, water filled, padded, unpadded, under wired, seamless, backless, boneless, strapless, open cup...with different cup sizes from A to JJ and not forgetting the numbers, different materials and designs...and that's just the bras!

     

    Basically, do your research first before you hit the mall or go shopping online and you've got a vastly better chance of getting it right. Wait until she goes out and then raid her underwear drawer. Please put things back exactly where you found them…she will know. Try to find things with the label in it and write down the numbers there. If they don’t have sizes inside, borrow one of her bra and panty sets and take it to a store and ask one of the sales staff...they've seen it all before, don't worry. Actually they will be most impressed that you took the time and risked the potential male embarrassment to take the trouble to do so. Make sure that the lingerie you take is on the new side or you risk buying something in the size she was rather than the size she is now...the very WORST thing you can do is buy something in the size she was before she went up a dress size or two!

     

    While you are rummaging around amongst her undies, make a note of the colors and styles she likes. Is there a particular color she is particularly fond of? Does she like patterns or plain styles? Does she go for comfort or sex appeal? These are important things to note if you are going to buy something she will like rather than something which gets shoved to the bottom of the drawer.

     

    3) Items To Avoid

     

    Now you know her size, the colors and styles she likes there's a few pitfalls to avoid:

     

    Avoid anything marked as "Control", "Reducing", etc. These are to suck in bellies and hide excess weight...unless you really want to send the message "suck it in fatty" you'd probably be best avoiding these!

     

    Gel filled, water filled and cleavage enhancing bras...again, unless this is what she prefers be careful what you might be viewed as hinting at with these.

     

    Kinky stuff in general doesn't generally work as an "I love you" kind of gift. If you are daring enough to buy it at all, then save it for the times in between birthdays, Christmas and Valentines Day...

     

    Anything else is probably safe.

     

    Final Tips

     

    Now you've got the majority of the pitfalls put to one side and hopefully avoided here are a few final tips:

     

    1) Presentation

     

    An important part of your gift is the presentation. Most shops will professionally gift wrap your purchase for you if you ask for a small charge and this is well worth paying a little extra for.

     

    2) Shop Online

     

    One of the glorious things about shopping for lingerie online is the wealth of information available to you that you simply will not find in a bricks and mortar lingerie retailer. Take a look at their gift ideas, top sellers list etc. for loads of ideas of what are popular choices.

     

    3) Keep The Receipt!

     

    If worse comes to the worse, she can always swap it for something else. However, keep in mind that most internet retailers may take back certain lingerie items but will not accept returns on panties, thongs, G Strings, teddies or anything else of that nature. They are not being difficult; it’s just due to health laws.

     

    If you are looking for sexy lingerie gifts, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

  • Stain Removal Guide

    The General Rules for Removing Stains

     

    Treat stains promptly. Fresh stains are easier to remove than old ones. If the stain is on a non-washable fabric, take it to the dry cleaner as soon as possible, and describe the nature of the stain and the fiber content of the garment.

     

    Read and carefully follow package directions when using any stain removal product.

     

    Always test stain removers on an inside seam or other hidden part of garment for color fastness. To test, apply product and let stand 2-5 minutes, then rinse. If color changes, do not use product on garment.

     

    When using bleach, do not try to bleach just one area of garment; bleach the entire garment to prevent uneven color removal.

     

    When treating, place stained area face down on a clean paper towel or white cloth. Apply stain remover to the underside of the stain, forcing stain off the fabric surface instead of through it.

    Never put chemical dry-cleaning solvents directly into washer.

    Thoroughly rinse and air dry areas treated with dry-cleaning solvents before placing in washer, to avoid a fire.

     

    Do not mix stain removal products together. Some mixtures, such as ammonia and chlorine bleach, can produce noxious fumes.

     

    Always launder washable items after treating to remove residues of the stain and the stain remover.

     

    Do not machine dry stained clothing before the stain is completely removed. The heat of the dryer can set the stain, making it permanent.

     

    Have patience; it takes a little extra time and effort to remove some stains.

     

    Remember, some stains cannot be removed.

     

    Basic Definitions

     

    Detergent - all-purpose synthetic detergent (liquid or powder). Use liquid detergent full strength; mix powder with water to form a paste when working into stain.

     

    Dry-Cleaning Solvent - stain and spot removers available at grocery and hardware stores. A nonflammable type is safest to use.

     

    Stain Stick - an enzyme-based cleaner available at grocery and discount stores. Most effective on food, grease, oil, protein, and dirt-based stains and can be used on any fabric and color. It can remain on fabric for up to one week.

     

    Stains

     

    Each stain may list several different removal methods to attempt

     

    Adhesive Tape, Airplane Glue

     

    Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. Follow the General Rules for stain removal.

     

    Rub ice on the area and carefully scrape off what you can with the dull side of a butter knife or a spoon.

     

    Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes for the product to penetrate.

     

    Rub with heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder immediately.

     

    For difficult stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of stain over absorbent paper towels. Let dry, rinse, and proceed per above. Read and carefully follow the instructions on the product label regarding use and handling.

     

    Alcoholic Beverages

     

    Pre-soak or sponge fresh stains immediately with cold water, then with cold water and glycerin. Rinse with vinegar for a few seconds if stain remains.

     

    Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.

     

    Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.

     

    To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric. always check for colorfastness first.

    If all the sugars are not removed a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is caramelized.

     

    Asphalt, Tar

     

    Rub the area with ice and carefully scrape with the dull edge of a butter knife.

     

    Saturate the area with an aerosol pretreatment laundry stain remover, wait a few minutes to allow it to penetrate, then rub with a heavy duty liquid laundry detergent and launder immediately.

     

    If the color stain remains, launder in chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or in all-fabric bleach. Always check for color fastness first.

     

    For extra heavy stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of the stain over absorbent paper towels. Let it dry. Then, rinse and proceed as above. Read the product label and proceed carefully when using dry cleaning fluid.

     

    Baby Stains (Food, Formula, Poop)

     

    Scrape off whatever you can.

     

    Fresh protein stains can often be removed by just soaking and agitating in cold water before washing. If hot water is used first, it can cook the protein, causing coagulation between the fibers in the yarns of the fabric, making the stain more difficult to remove.

     

    Soak in cold water using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.

     

    Launder in warm (not hot) water, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash. (Never put a stained fabric in a dryer. The heat from the dryer can set the stain.)

     

    If color stain remains, launder using chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or with all fabric bleach. However, if bleach is used, rewash to be sure all bleach has been removed because baby's skin is sensitive.

     

    According to the Old Farmer's Almanac, adding one cup of white vinegar to each laundry load during the rinse cycle breaks down uric acid and soapy residue, leaving baby clothes and diapers soft and fresh. But, be sure you use WHITE vinegar.

     

    Blood

     

    Flush cold water through the stain and scrape off crusted material.

     

    Pre-soak in cold or warm water at least 30 minutes. If stain remains, soak in lukewarm ammonia water (3 Tbs. per Gallon of water). Rinse. If stain remains, work in detergent and wash, using bleach safe for fabric.

     

    Blood stains, if fresh, may be removed by washing in cold water. If hard and dry steep for a few hours in cold water, to which add a pinch of baking soda. Washing and bleaching will finish the process. Never put blood stains in hot water.

     

    As an alternative:

     

    Soak for 15 minutes in a mixture of 1 quart of lukewarm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid hand dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Use cool/lukewarm water. Heat can permanently set protein stains. Rub gently from the back to loosen stain.

     

    Soak another 15 minutes in above mixture. Rinse. Soak in enzyme product for at least 30 minutes. Soaked aged stains for several hours. Launder.

     

    If the blood stain is not completely removed by this process, wet the stain with hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Caution: Do not leave this mixture longer than 15 minutes. Rinse with cool water.

     

    If blood stain has dried, pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of granular laundry product and water. Launder using bleach safe for fabric.

     

    Butter, Cooking Oils, Fats, Margarine, Mayonnaise, Vegetable Oil

     

    Treat light stains with a pretreatment spray stain remover and wait a couple minutes for it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder

     

    If color stain remains, launder with chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or use all-fabric bleach. Always test for colorfastness before using bleach.

     

    Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. (Carefully read and follow instructions on the product package.) Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.

     

    Candle Wax

     

    Use dull knife to scrape off as much wax as possible. Place fabric between two blotters or facial tissues and press with warm iron. Remove color stains with non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Wash with detergent in the hottest water safe for fabric.

    As an alternative:

     

    Harden wax by rubbing with ice. Remove surface wax by carefully scraping with the dull edge of a butter knife.

    Sandwich the wax stain between folded paper towels and press with a warm (not hot) iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring the stain. Continue as long as wax is being removed.

     

    Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with a pre-wash stain remover or dry-cleaning fluid; blot with paper towels. Let dry, then launder. Note: If any color remains, re-launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric.

     

    Chap Stick

     

    Saturate the areas with a pretreatment aerosol stain remover.

    Wait several minutes for product to penetrate. Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately.

     

    If color stain remains, launder in chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric, or in all fabric bleach. When using bleach always check an inside seam for colorfastness.

     

    For extra heavy stains apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of the stain over white absorbent towels. Let dry, rinse and launder as above. (Carefully read and follow directions and cautions on dry cleaning fluid.)

     

    Chewing Gum

     

    Rub area with ice, and then scrape off with dull blade. Sponge with dry cleaning solvent; allow to air dry. Wash in detergent and hottest water safe for fabric.

     

    Egg white is said to remove chewing gum from anything. Rub the egg white on the gum and it will remove it from cloth, hair or hands without leaving a spot.

     

    Peanut Butter will also remove chewing gum but it will likely leave another spot or stain to deal with.

     

    Chewing gum may be removed from different materials by soaking them in turpentine.

     

    Chocolate and Cocoa

     

    Pre-soak stain in cold or warm water. Wash in hot water with detergent. Remove any grease stains with dry cleaning solvent. If color remains, sponge with hydrogen peroxide, wash again.

    Treat the stain with a pre-wash spray or pre-treat with a product containing enzymes. Rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder.

     

    If stain remains, re-launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. If stain still remains, treat as a "Dye Stain."

     

    Coffee

     

    Sponge or soak with cold water as soon as possible. Wash using detergent and bleach safe for fabric. Remove cream grease stain with non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Wash again.

     

    Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover.

     

    Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.

     

    Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.

     

    If stain remains launder with bleach safe for the fabric.

    To remove coffee, tea or cocoa stains, use glycerin. A fresh stain can be removed by gentle rubbing; if stain is old, soak in the glycerin for sometime.

     

    Crayon

     

    For Crayon Brand specific products go to their website. This is the link to the crayon stain removal guide. http://crayola.com/canwehelp/staintips/stain.cfm

     

    For general crayon stains:

     

    Scrape with dull blade. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric with detergent and 1-2 cups of baking soda. If full load is crayon stained, take to cleaners or coin-operated dry cleaning machines.

     

    For another option, here's what another source says:

    Scrape excess crayon with the dull edge of a butter knife.

    Wash in hot, soft water with soap, such as Ivory and 1/2 cup baking soda for 10 minutes.

     

    If the stain remains, work soap paste into the stain. Wash 5 minutes. Rinse.

     

    To remove any remaining color use bleach or color remover as safe for the fabric. Always test for color fastness.

     

    Correction Fluid, White Out®

     

    This is a real tough one, and may be permanent. It can penetrate into the fabric and when it dries, it coats the fibers in a harden "plaster." Unless there are instructions on the product label, you can try specific stain removal products available at the grocery or drug store, such as Carbona's "Stain Devils® or take the stain to your dry cleaner and tell them to treat it as a paint stain.

     

    Cream, Cheese Sauce

     

    Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing.

     

    If stain is dried, scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water with a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm water. Do not use hot water.

    If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash.

    If color stain remains launder with bleach safe for the fabric. Always test for colorfastness first.

     

    Dairy Products

     

    Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried, scrape or bush off any crusted matter.

    Soak for up to several hours in cold water with a detergent or an enzyme presoak.

     

    Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash.

     

    If color stain remains, launder with bleach safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first.

     

    Deodorants

     

    Sponge area with white vinegar. If stain remains, soak with denatured alcohol. Wash with detergent in hottest water safe for fabric.

     

    Dinginess, Yellowing, Graying

     

    There are several reasons why fabrics gray, yellow, and become dingy. These include not using the right amount of detergent (i.e., using too much or too little detergent), insufficient rinsing, and/or the wash water temperature is too low. To re-furbish clothing from these discolorations:

     

    Wash with a permanent press cycle in hot water, use a cool-down rinse on permanent press and use one cup of water conditioner instead of detergent.

     

    If the discoloration remains, either repeat this procedure or wash with the correct amount of detergent and either all-fabric bleach or chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric. (always check for colorfastness first.)

     

    If the fabric is white, consider specialty products available in grocery or drug stores, such as Rit's "Whitener and Brightener" to whiten the fabric.

     

    Always separate and wash your whites separate from colors. And, don't put heavily soil garments with lightly soiled items.

    Also see "Yellowing" in this list.

     

    Dye

     

    If dye transfers from a non-colorfast item during washing, immediately bleach discolored items. Repeat as necessary before drying. On whites use color remover.


    NOTE: Do not use color remover in washer, or around washer and dryer. It will damage the finish of them.

     

    Do not machine dry stained clothing before the stain is completely removed. The heat of the dryer can set the stain, making it permanent.

     

    Dye Stains, Dye Transfer

     

    Dye stains (incl. mustard, etc.) can be very difficult to remove. Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment care label and check for color fastness first. And, be aware that during soaking all colors may be lightened.

     

    If the stain remains and the garment is colorfast, soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again, test for colorfastness first.

     

    Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the garment or cause irreversible damage. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by bleaching, and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric.

     

    Note: To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minute, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powered bleaches have directions for doing colorfastness tests.

    There are also a number of dye removers/strippers, such as one from Rit, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will also take out fabric colors as well as the stain.

     

    Do not machine dry stained clothing before the stain is completely removed. The heat of the dryer can set the stain, making it permanent.

     

    Egg

     

    Scrape with dull blade. Pre-soak in cold or warm water for at least 30 minutes. Remove remaining with dry cleaning solvent. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric with detergent.

    Egg stains on washable fabrics may be removed by soaking the garment in cold water for a short time before washing with soap and water in the usual way.

     

    Epoxy Glue

     

    Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment's label.

     

    Epoxy type glues may be impossible to remove. You might try using dry cleaning solvent, which may cause the glue to swell so that it can be removed by scraping with the dull side of a butter knife. Read the product label and proceed carefully when using dry cleaning fluid.

     

    Fabric Softener

     

    Greasy looking stains can come from undiluted fabric softener and from dryer sheets.

     

    Rub stained area with bar soap (Ivory) and launder as usual. Repeat as necessary.

     

    Fruit and Fruit Juices

     

    Sponge with cold water immediately. Pre-soak in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Wash with detergent and bleach safe for fabric.

     

    While fruit stain is still moist, cover it with powdered starch. When dry, rinse the article and cold water and wash in the ordinary way.

     

    Fruit stains may be removed with a strong solution of borax, or the stain moistened with water, rubbed with borax, and boiling water poured through.

     

    For Cherry and Blueberry see "Dye Stains"

     

    Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.

     

    Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.

     

    To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric.

     

    If all the sugars are not removed a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is caramelized.

     

    Glue

     

    Sponge vinegar on spot saturating spot, let sit for 20 minutes. Scrape with dull knife. Sponge again, let sit then wash in hottest water safe for fabric.

     

    Glue, White Glue, School Glue

     

    Scrape off whatever you can.

    Soak and agitate in cold water before washing. If hot water is used first, it can cook the glue, causing coagulation between the fibers in the yarns of the fabric, making the stain more difficult to remove.

     

    Soak in cold water using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.

     

    Launder in warm water, rinse, and inspect. Do not use hot water. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash.

     

    Never put a stained fabric in a dryer. The heat from the dryer can set the stain, making it permanent.

     

    Grass

     

    Pre-soak in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Rinse. Pre-treat with detergent. Wash using detergent, hot water and bleach safe for fabric. On acetate and colored fabrics, use 1 part of alcohol to 2 parts water.

     

    For grass stains use cold water and no soap. Alcohol or ether may be used if the material is not washable.

    If color stain remains, treat as a "Dye Stain."

     

    Gravy

     

    Saturate the stain with a pre-wash spray. Wait several minutes for product to penetrate. For tough stains rub with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder.

     

    If stain remains, launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first.

     

    Grease

     

    Sponge spot with a mixture of 1Tbs. Salt to 4 Tbs. rubbing alcohol. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric. If spot still remains, do not dry, use dry cleaning solvent and re-wash.

    Grease spots generally may be removed with hot water and soap. If the stains have become fixed by long standing, the may be removed by chloroform, ether or naphtha. If any of these chemical are used, keep them at a safe distance from fire or artificial light.

     

    To remove grease from silk, lay the silk on a table on top of a clean white cloth. cover the spot thickly with powdered French chalk. On this lay a sheet of blotting paper and over that a moderately hot iron. If the grease does not disappear at once, repeat process.

     

    Grease, Hand Lotion, Oil Based Make-up, Ointment, Salve, Motor Oil

     

    Saturate light stains with a pretreatment spray stain remover and wait several minutes for it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder .

     

    If color stain remains, launder with chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or use all-fabric bleach. Always test for colorfastness before using bleach.

     

    Place heavy stains face down on folded paper towels. Apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. (Carefully read and follow instructions on the product package.) Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.

    If color stain remains, treat as a "Dye Stain."

     

    Grease, Oil, Tar

     

    Method 1: Use powder or chalk absorbents to remove as much grease as possible. Pre-treat with detergent or non-flammable dry cleaning solvent, or liquid shampoo. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric, using plenty of detergent.

     

    Method 2: Rub spot with lard and sponge with a non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Wash in hottest water and detergent safe for fabric.

     

    Gum

     

    Gum may be very difficult to remove if it has been in the dryer.

    Hold ice on the gum to harden it.

     

    Crack or scrape off what you can using the dull side of a butter knife.

     

    Spray with an aerosol pretreatment product, and let stand for five minutes.

     

    Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent. Launder.

     

    Repeat, if necessary.

     

    Ink (Solvent Soluble)

     

    With ink you generally need to act fast to have a chance. Also, the heat in the dryer can set the stain.

     

    First, sponge the area around the stain with denatured alcohol. Then apply the alcohol directly on the stain.

     

    Next, place the stain face down on clean white, paper towels. Apply alcohol to the back of the stain. Replace towels frequently. Continue until no further ink is removed. Then rinse thoroughly.

     

    Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for fabric, with bleach safe for fabric. Always check for color fastness first.

     

    Instead of alcohol, you could use dry cleaning solvent, such as Carbona, Energine, Goddard's. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the product label. These products are toxic. Also, first try a hidden inside seam to be sure any garment color won't be affected.

     

    Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. You should be able to find this in areas where package dyes are sold. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye stability in a hidden area before using.

     

    Also, be aware that these products will affect any colors on the fabric.

     

    Ink - Ball Point Pen

     

    Pour denatured alcohol through stain. Rub in petroleum jelly. Sponge with non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Soak in detergent solution. Wash with detergent and bleach safe for fabric.

     

    As alternative, try spraying the ink mark with aerosol hair spray, then wash. Do not dry the garment if the stain is still present as the heat from the dryer can make the stain permanent.

     

    Ink - Fountain Pen

     

    Run cold water through stain until no more color will come out. Rub in lemon juice and detergent. Let stand 5 minutes.

    Wet ink stains may be removed by washing in milk or better still, buttermilk. Wash, changing the milk frequently.

    Dry ink stains can be removed from white material by steeping the stained material in a hot solution of salts of lemon--one tbsp. of salts to one quart of boiling water; or simply place the stained part over a basin, cover the stain with salts and pour the boiling water through. Repeat if necessary.

     

    Ink stains may be removed by covering the spot with lard. Let this stand for about twelve hours and wash the article in the regular way.

     

    Soak ink stains in sour milk. If a dark stain remains, rinse in a weak solution of chloride of lime.

     

    Ink stains on the fingers can be removed by brushing with a soft nail brush dipped first in pure vinegar and then in salt.

     

    Ink - Permanent

     

    Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.

    To have any chance you need to treat immediately. The first step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove excess ink. Allow to dry.

     

    Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent (read and follow the directions carefully, it is toxic). Allow the fabric to dry. Rub a liquid detergent into the stain. Rinse.

     

    Soak the stain in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added.

     

    Rinse and repeat if stain is lessoning. Launder.

     

    Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. Follow package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye fastness in a hidden are before using. Also, be aware that these products will affect all colors on the fabric.

    For additional tips, see "Markers"

     

    Iodine

     

    To remove iodine stains from linens, rub the stained area with a slice of lemon.

     

    To remove an iodine stain from cotton or linen, cover with a soft paste of mustard mixed with water and let stand for a few hours. Every trace of iodine will be removed.

     

    Leather - Stains on Leather

     

    Do not attempt to treat stains on leather yourself. Take leather to a professional dry cleaner for their opinion. Also, be advised that some changes in the color and "look" of the leather will almost always occur in the cleaning process. This is because there are often differences in the skins used, differences in colorfastness, loss of oils in the cleaning, and other factors related to the nature of the leather.

     

    Lipstick

     

    Loosen stain with a non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Rub detergent in until stain outline is gone. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric.

     

    Place the stain face down on folded paper towels. Sponge area with dry-cleaning solvent. Replace towels frequently; let dry; rinse.

     

    Rub with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder.

     

    Repeat treatment if needed using all-fabric bleach, because it is less damaging to colors and fabric.

     

    If stain remains, treat as a "Dye Stain."

     

    Make-up Water Based

     

    Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.

     

    Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.

     

    To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first.

    If color stain remains, treat as a "Dye Stain."

     

    Markers

     

    This is from the Crayon website:

     

    Materials

     

    Rubbing alcohol

    Laundry detergent

    Bleach for colored clothing (Clorox 2® or Biz®)

    Paper towels

    Cotton ball

     

    Procedure


    Rinse stain from the fabric with cold water until no more color is being removed. Place fabric on paper towels and saturate with alcohol using a cotton ball to blot the stain. Replace the paper towels as often as needed. Wash in hot water with laundry detergent and bleach and rinse in warm water.

     

    Meat Juices

     

    Scrape with dull blade. Pre-soak in cold or warm water for 30 minutes. Wash with detergent and bleach safe for fabric.

     

    Mildew

     

    Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cellulose fiber and can also attack manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers and fabrics.

     

    To treat mildew first carefully brush or shake off mildewed area.

    Pre-treat as soon as possible with detergent. Wash. If any stain remains, sponge with lemon juice and salt. Dry in sun. Wash, using hottest water, detergent and bleach safe for fabric.

    Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluid, i.e., Carbona, Energine, Goddard's (Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label).

     

    Mildew stains may be removed by rubbing with a paste made by mixing two tsp. of water, one of powdered chalk and two of soap powder. The spots should afterwards be well rinsed and dried out of doors in the sunlight. This has a bleaching effect on them.

    Soak mildew stains for several hours in a weak solution of chloride of lime; afterwards rinse in cold water.

     

    Milk, Cream, Ice Cream

     

    Pre-soak in cold or warm water for 30 minutes. Wash. Sponge any grease spots with non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Wash again.

     

    Never put hot water on milk and cream stains. Wash them out in cold water, followed by soap and water. Rinse in clear water.

     

    Mud

     

    Scrape off whatever you can.

     

    Soak and agitate in water before washing to further remove material.

     

    Soak tough stains using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.

    Launder normally, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash.

     

    Mud with high iron content (red mud) may leave permanent stains, regardless of treatment.

     

    Nail Polish

     

    Sponge with polish remover or banana oil. Wash. If stain remains, sponge with denatured alcohol to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. Wash again. Do not use polish remover on acetate or triacetate fabrics.

     

    For stains from nail polish, apply nail polish remover to the back of the stain while laying the fabric on white absorbent towels. Replace towels frequently.

     

    Then rinse and launder.

     

    Never use nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or

    modacrylic, as they will dissolve. Take these fabrics to the dry cleaner.

     

    Odors

     

    Most odors should be removed by normal laundering.

     

    For stubborn odors place calcium carbonate crystals, activated charcoal, or soda in an open container and store with clothes in the closet, or sprinkle the clothes with soda, let stand, and then vacuum.

     

    Although a little odd, for really persistent odors, try placing a thin layer of kitty litter on the clothing and let it stay for a couple of days. Then vacuum. It works!

     

    Paint - Oil Base

     

    Sponge stains with turpentine, cleaning fluid or paint remover. Pre-treat and wash in hot water. For old stains, sponge with banana oil and then with non-flammable dry cleaning solvent. Wash again.

     

    To remove paint from colored material, dip the stains in turpentine, rub, then dip in a little ammonia, rub and wash in warm water.

     

    To remove wet paint from white material wash the stain with soap and water and boil with a small amount of paraffin in the water. Dry paint on white material can easily be removed by steeping the stain in turpentine. Rub well and wash in the ordinary way.

     

    Act fast and blot, don't rub. Rubbing forces the stain deeper into the fabric.

     

    Try using a thinner recommended for the paint. Usually turpentine or alcohol will work as solvents. However, test an inside seam for color fastness or the potential for other damage first. Spot treat the stained areas until the paint is softened and can be flushed away by agitating in a solution of water and a heavy-duty liquid detergent.

    Launder immediately.

     

    Paint - Water Base

     

    Scrape off paint with dull blade. Wash with detergent in water as hot as is safe for fabric.

     

    Act fast, and blot and never rub a stain. Rubbing forces the stain deeper into the fabric.

     

    Soak in cold water.

     

    Saturate the area with an aerosol pretreatment laundry stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes to allow it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy duty liquid laundry detergent and then launder immediately in hottest water safe for the fabric.

    If the color remains, launder in chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric or in oxygen bleach (Always read and follow the care instructions on the garment label with respect to the use of bleach, and check for color fastness. Bleach should not be used on items containing spandex).

     

    For extra heavy stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of the stain over white, absorbent paper towels. Let it dry. Then, rinse and proceed as above. Always read the label and proceed carefully when using dry cleaning fluid.

     

    Paint Spots

     

    Scrape dried paint with dull blade. Sponge with several applications of equal parts ammonia and turpentine. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric.

     

    Pencil Marks

     

    Use a soft eraser to remove what excess lead you can. But, be careful so you do not damage or stretch the fabric.

     

    Spray the stain with a pretreatment product.

     

    Rub the area with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Rinse and launder.

     

    There are also commercial pencil mark removers available in some quilt supply stores.

     

    Perspiration

     

    Sponge fresh stain with ammonia; old stain with vinegar. Pre-soak in cold or warm water. Rinse. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric. If fabric is yellowed, use bleach. If stain still remains, dampen and sprinkle with meat tenderizer, or pepsin. Let stand

     

    1 hour. Brush off and wash. For persistent odor, sponge with colorless mouthwash.

     

    Fresh perspiration is acid. Use a solution of alkaline to remove. Baking soda is alkaline. Old perspiration stains are alkaline. Use a milk solution of white vinegar to remove.

     

    Perspiration, Deodorant

     

    Deodorant, if allowed to stay in fabric, will eventually stain and weaken the fabric. Aluminum chlorides in antiperspirants will also weaken the fabric under the arms. Controlled use of antiperspirants and frequent washings immediately after wear can minimize this type of damage. Wearing an undershirt or perspiration pads, can also keep stains off your shirts or blouses. Also, consider experimenting with different anti-antiperspirants/deodorants.

     

    These types of stains can be difficult to remove. And, the build-up of aluminum chloride or zinc salts may be impossible to remove. Old stains are more difficult to treat because they have been set, particularly from being heated in the dryer.

    Rub light stains with a liquid detergent and then launder.

    Pre-treat heavy stains with a pre-wash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes.

     

    Launder using all-fabric bleach.

     

    If fabric has discolored, you might try treating fresh stains with ammonia and old stains with WHITE vinegar.

     

    Pine Resin, Sap from Christmas Tree, Wreaths, etc.

     

    Saturate the area with a pretreatment stain remover. Wait several minutes for the product to penetrate. Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately.

    Rub with detergent paste and launder as usual.

    For extra heavy stains lay the stain face down on folded absorbent paper towels and apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of the stain. Let dry, rinse, and proceed as above.

    If color stain remains, treat as a "Dye Stain."

     

    Rust

     

    Removing rust stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be removed in normal laundering. Do not use chlorine bleach; chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent. Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not let dry between applications.

     

    Rinse thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry detergent and oxygen bleach, following directions.

     

    If safe for fabric, boil in solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.

     

    Severe rust staining may be removed with a commercial rust remover, such as Rover or Whink. Follow package instructions. But rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and sinks.

     

    To date, we have always been pleased with the performance of Whink and have never seen any fabric damage or discoloration on regular machine washable fabrics. Use with caution on delicate fabrics as we have no personal experience regarding this product on delicate fabrics. 

     

    Soak in lemon juice and salt or oxalic solution (3 Tbs. oxalic acid to 1 Pt. warm water.)

     

    Table salt and cream of tarter, equal parts, will remove rust stains. Wet the spot and spread the mixture on thickly, then place the material in the sun.

     

    Scorch Marks

     

    Scorching permanently damages the fabric. The heat burns and weakens the fibers, and can also melt manufactured fibers, such as polyester. If the damage is slight you might be able to improve the look. Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Gently brush the area to remove charring.

     

    If the garment is washable, rub liquid detergent into scorched area. Launder.

     

    If stain remains, bleach with all-fabric bleach. Before using bleach test an area for color fastness; directions are on the bleach package.

     

    Smoke, Soot

     

    Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Shake off excess soot outdoors.

     

    Launder in washing machine using a heavy-duty phosphate-based detergent or heavy-duty liquid as recommended by manufacturer, one cup of water conditioner, and 1/2 cup of all-fabric bleach. Use water setting appropriate for the fabric. Air dry.

     

    Inspect for smoke odor. Repeat as necessary. Three or four washes may be needed for cottons and cotton blends.

     

    Soft Drinks

     

    Sponge immediately with cold water and alcohol. Heat and detergent may set stain.

     

    Tea

     

    Sponge with cold water as soon as possible. Wash using detergent and bleach safe for fabric.

     

    Tomato Based Stains

     

    Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Saturate the area with pretreatment laundry stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes for the product to penetrate the stain. For stubborn stains, rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately.

     

    If color stain remains, soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Be aware that all the colors may lighten.

     

    If the stain persists, and the garment is white or colorfast, soak in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. But, be sure to read the garment label regarding the use of bleach. Bleach can damage some dyes and prints, and bleaching damage is irreversible. And, if the stain is not removed in 15 minutes, it cannot be removed by bleaching and further bleaching will only weaken the fabric.

     

    Caution - Since bleaches can alter the color of a fabric as well as the stain, bleach the whole garment and do not try to bleach just the spot (again, be sure bleaching is permitted).

     

    For heavy stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to back of stain over absorbent white paper towels. (Check product label for instructions and follow carefully.) Let dry; rinse. Proceed as above.

     

    Urine, Vomit

     

    Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Scrape off whatever you can.

     

    Fresh protein stains can often be removed by just soaking and agitating in cold water before washing. If hot water is used first, it can cook the protein, causing coagulation between the fibers in the yarns of the fabric, making the stain more difficult to remove.

     

    Soak in cold water using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.

     

    Launder in warm (not hot) water, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash. (Never put a stained fabric in a dryer. The heat from the dryer can set the stain.)

     

    If color stain remains, launder using chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or with all fabric bleach. Always check for colorfastness first.

     

    Water Stains

     

    Water stains on washable fabrics should be removed during normal laundering. For dry cleanable draperies, consult a professional cleaner. Water marks on drapes are water soluble and can not be removed by dry cleaning solvents.

     

    Wine

     

    Wine stains may be removed by holding the stained portion of the cloth in boiling milk.

     

    Yellowing

     

    Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

     

    Some fabrics which are white or pastel colored contain optical brighteners or fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) which were applied during manufacturing. These agents can decompose when exposed to light and atmospheric conditions, or prolonged storage conditions. In some cases the entire fabric becomes dingy or develops a yellow cast. In other cases the yellowing develops only where exposed to light. The FWAs can also be damaged by the use of chlorine bleach.

     

    Unfortunately, once the FWAs are damaged, the whitening agents can't be reapplied to the fabric.

     

    All fabric bleach or the use of specialty products available in grocery or drug stores, such as Rit's "Whitener and Brightener" may help. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label, and check for colorfastness first.

     

    Also see "Dinginess, Yellowing, Graying," in this list.

  • What are Boy Shorts

    Boy shorts are a relatively new underwear option and are gaining in popularity. Some even claim they are replacing other panties. They are crossing generational lines and being worn by grandmothers and teenagers alike.

     

    Boy shorts are tight and extremely short shorts cunningly intended go beneath clothes. They are designed to prevent others seeing from your underwear in low cut pants, but provide more coverage than thongs and even bikini underwear. Some versions provide almost full coverage of your rear, while others only provide partial coverage — think the lower quarter of your rear. They are cut low at the thigh to cover the hips and upper part of the thigh. In addition, these panties tend to gloss over problem areas of the hips and thighs, which may be why they are so popular.

     

    Why Should I Wear Boy Shorts ?

    Boy shorts are incredibly comfortable, much more comfortable than thongs. They tend not to ride, but stay in place; though some versions do ride a little. They are perfect for lounging around the house, or wearing beneath pajamas or work out clothes. Some versions are perfect for tighter clothes and dresses too. In addition, they are designed to go beneath low rise pants, a plus if you lean over a lot and wear low cut pants.

    Boy shorts are very sexy, some say sexier than thongs. They cover the rear, though not fully. We all know men are visual creatures, and many men find the little part that boy shorts show to be appealing. Men feel like they’re seeing something they shouldn’t. In addition, these panties cover hips and the upper parts of thighs — something most women appreciate. Many designers have added lace, bows and ribbons onto different versions making them more feminine and sexy.

    But there is one problem with boy shorts. Some versions do leave a visible panty line, though options to eliminate this are getting better and better. Versions of this panty made from a micro-fiber and without lace, ribbons or embellishment are your best bet. If you are wearing tight clothes and are worried about visible panty line, a thong is still your best bet, though well constructed boy shorts are a close second.

     

    Boy shorts often look great with a sexy camisole rather than a bra. This is great for lounging around the house on hot evenings or for wearing for someone special. If you’re worried about support, wear a bra beneath your camisole or try a camisole with built in support.

     

    If you are looking for boy shorts or other styles of sexy underwear, visit  Sexy Lingerie Nights , a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic.

  • Women's Guide to Buying Lingerie

    When you're shopping for sexy and erotic lingerie for the first time, you may feel overwhelmed. Here's a guide to the types of lingerie.

     

    Types of Lingerie

     

    Babydolls are probably what your mind immediately goes to when you think of sexy bedroom clothing. Babydolls are short gowns. Normally, they're fitted at the top--sometimes with under wire and cups--and flow out to about hip-length. They can be silky, satiny or sheer. They also often come with matching panties.

     

    Corsets and Bustiers are usually strapless and do amazing things for the breasts. They push them up for the ultimate cleavage. They're similar to bras, but there is extra material at the bottom that extends to the waist. Some of the more tasteful pieces can be worn under a suit jacket or button-up shirt to add a bit of sexy color.

     

    Teddies are similar to bodysuits or one-piece swimsuits, but are often sold in lace of all colors. They're often very low-cut and sometimes have a thong back. The cups aren't usually lined but sometimes have under wire for support.

     

    Gowns come in all lengths. They're similar to silky dresses. They can be many different lengths. The ankle-length gowns are called peignoirs.

     

    Cami, Camisoles and Shorts are the cross between comfort and sexy. Often, the cami do just what needs to be done to show off your décolletage and make your breasts seem as close to perfection as ever. While they look good on everyone, the girls with boyish figures look especially cute in cami and shorts. A v-cut cami and booty-hugging shorts can make curves come to life.

     

    Bra and Panty Sets aren't usually considered the hottest of the hot lingerie. Still, some sets are incredibly exciting and can make you feel confident and beautiful, girly or gutsy. And the best part is they can be worn under your clothes so you can keep that feeling all day long--not just before bed.

     

    Why Wear Sexy, Exotic Lingerie ?

    No, really. It's not just the reason you think. It will make YOU feel good. Even if you don't have a significant other, dressing in nice lingerie just for yourself can boost your self-esteem and make you feel like a sex goddess. Girls with curves look amazing in lingerie, so wearing sexy and erotic lingerie is a way to embrace them. Also, wearing lingerie for your man will definitely turn the heat up a notch. Surprise him with a style you don't usually wear. Keep your heels on for the total picture. They go well with sexy and erotic lingerie. Some lingerie is actually very comfortable for sleeping. If you don't have anywhere to go the next day, you may find yourself lounging around in it.

    Sexy and erotic lingerie can do so much for your relationship and your confidence. If you're lingerie-shy, you might want to warm up to it with a cami and boy shorts. Don't dismiss the babydolls and teddies, though. You'll surely look stunning to yourself and your significant other.

     

    If you are looking for sexy lingerie, visit Sexy Lingerie Nights, a great place to find cute sexy bra sets, naughty lingerie, lingerie club wear, stockings, hosiery and other beautiful, exotic lingerie.

 



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